|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, 500', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]|
|FA:||1980 JD & SF|
|Season:||Any - when not closed for raptures|
|Submitted By:||Fussman on Jun 15, 2011|
|Seasonal Falcon Closure-Lifted MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Save the Shrimp||Add Comment|
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By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Just a couple of notes...
Got a old topo of this route that was first done in 1980. The start might be a bit hard to find but you wanna be below and slighly right of the big overhanging SW arete feature (Gorilla's Face). Pitch 1 Slab and face climb up and left passing one bolt gear to 2 bolt belay (if you see a right facing dihedral with a right arching roof you are on route). Pitch 2 Climb mentioned dihedral then step left out roof to face climb to a ledge. Pitch 3 Short climbing up steep face past big holds to ledge. Belay at fixed rope and trees (we combined these two pitches). Pitch 4 Traverse left on "Indian Ledges" until able to pull roof to face and 2 bolt anchor. Pitch 5 Traverse right to grassy ramp angling slightly upward to 2 bolt belay. Pitch 6 Continue right to flake pasted on wall continue to ledge and gear belay. Pitch 7 Up a water groove past 1 bolt gear to single bolt below the treeline.
Bolts are one "newer" one and one ancient one at most belays.
While not as long, committing and hard as other Whiteside routes Save the Shrimp offers a good mix of exciting Whiteside style climbing.