|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Steven Lucarelli on Jul 7, 2008|
|Comments on Save The Best For Last||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Elijah Flenner
Aug 7, 2012
|We went to climb this route on August 5th 2012 and there was a chalk skull and crossbones at the base and sticks in the first bolt. We took this as a sign and stayed off it. Is there anything dangerous about this route? Did the rockfall damage something?|
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 8, 2012
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Sep 3, 2012
|This route no longer exists due to rockfall.|
From: Lander, WY
Jul 9, 2013
|This route just needs a bolt added around the 5 bolt or so, and a good brush down, then it'll be climbable again... and a little bit harder|
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
May 29, 2014
Got on this on Memorial Day, super fun route! Some holds are a little dusty.
Route is still mostly climbable and very fun! Missing a bolt that could put you into groundfall range from 30 feet up or so, with some cruxiness before it. Bring your lead head for this and a few alpines to lower the clip down for other leaders with you who might want a more reasonable clipping stance.
There's a lower-off biner before the ledge up top to lower off of, might be worth being familiar with one-bolt lowering (see "Lowering with Prussik" on p2 of petzl.com/files/all/en/activit.... The ledge up top is covered with small and large chunks of rock and slightly sloping, don't try to reach the actual anchors if you value your belayer's life.
Oh and the chimney to the left blows out icy air, even when ambient temps are hot. Might want a jacket as the belayer. Stick your water bottles in there to get them cold!