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Savage Gardens 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Greg Collum, Greg Child
Page Views: 57
Submitted By: Drewsky on Oct 26, 2013

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Description 

This climb weaves a path up the wall to the right of Total Seawash Calypso. I believe the current interpretation is a combination of the beginning of Savage Gardens and the end of Willing Slave (see below), but I'm not sure. The climbing is exciting and has short cruxes between stances throughout. The climb falls under the 'slab climbing with features' category and has some classic Index moves!

Location 

Head out the ledge past Total Seawash Calypso to a bolted belay anchor. The ledge thins considerably, so use care! This route is one of a pair (Savage Gardens and Willing Slave) that start on either side of the lower belay anchor, converge midway for a couple of bolts, then diverge again and end at different anchors. The current climbable (recently cleaned?) line heads right at the beginning, then finishes at the left anchor up top.

Protection 

Bolts, at times well-spaced. In particular, be careful with the third clip. The climbing is somewhat bold and there are places throughout the climb where falling could have consequences, especially at the beginning. Anchors at top left have new chain and bolts are good throughout.


Comments on Savage Gardens Add Comment
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By Drewsky
Oct 26, 2013

The climb seems to have been cleaned recently but is still a little scruffy. A quick brushing while lowering will go a long way towards improving it.
By Jens Holsten
Dec 8, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Climbed this route again yesterday (12/7/2014) and was reminded that it is a great pitch. Dries very quickly and features classic Index cruxes between stances. Gotta do this one more often!