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Upper Broadloaves - North
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Savage Attack! 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Earl Mcalister
Season: Summer- northeast facing
Page Views: 85
Submitted By: bheller on Jun 30, 2014

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The crux is bolt protected and found right off the ledge where the route departs the Lost Pioneers (10a) corner at 3/4's height. This route is worth doing on a hot day, but the grainy lichen covered rock lowers its quality rating.


This route is the jagged finger crack that leaves the corner and diagonals out left on the steep face from Lost Pioneers (10a). Climb Lost Pioneers (10a) about 3/4's of its length and mantle onto the small ledge beneath the patch of large feldspar crystal. Easiest to rap with a 70, but a 60 could work with some downclimbing.


Standard trad rack. 2 bolts protect the steep moves through the large feldspar crystals off the ledge where the route departs Lost Pioneers (10a). Small nuts are helpful for protecting the jagged finger crack on the face. Bolt anchor on the far left side of the flat "block" ledge it finishes on.

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By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 30, 2014

I spied this line from the road and because it wasn't in the guidebook or posted, my friend and I thought were were in for a ground up traditional F.A. We even scoped the route with binoculars and somehow missed the two bolts and upper anchor! Nice work camouflaging those with paint! It would have went without the bolts, but it would have been a R rating. Perhaps this is a Shilling route... who knows? We just added our own name (Savage Attack!), but I'll gladly correct to credit the F.A. A few more bolts up the steep hueco'd north face would make a most excellent 2nd summit pitch and greatly add to the routes appeal- especially on those hot summer days!
By JF1
From: Las Vegas
Jul 14, 2014

FA Earl Mcalister
By dave bingham
Jan 20, 2015

I backed off this cool little crack back in the diem (when we were still speaking Latin). Good job pushing thru lads! Yes to a finish up the head-wall!

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