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Sautanz 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: K. Albert 1981
Page Views: 151
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jul 26, 2013

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The crux traverse.

Description 

A very impressive line which follows a crack up its first half and then continues onto the face as the crack comes to an end. Thin and technical, with a distinct crux whose end is marked by a jug.
After his successful toprope without weighting the rope, Kurt was awarded a bottle of wine with dancing pigs on the label. Thus, the inspiration for the route's name. The second toprope ascent went to John Bachar, and the first redpoint was done by Wolfgang Güllich. I got this information from de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sautanz_...
Additionally, from a story in "Fight Gravity" by Kurt Albert, Jerry Moffatt came for several visits to the Frankenjura and made friends with the climbers here. During a visit in 1983, he was shown this relatively new addition to the Frankenjura hard-route scene. He had been onsighting everything else they were showing him and, sick of it, Kurt lowered down and rubbed something slippery or gooey in the crux hold. When Jerry got on it, he climbed up to that part, grabbed the hold, screamed down something like, "You assholes!", grabbed another hold and finished his onsight.

Location 

On the right side of the crag.

Protection 

bolts + anchor


Photos of Sautanz Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the magnificent pegboard of 2-finger pock...
Enjoying the magnificent pegboard of 2-finger pock...
Rock Climbing Photo: Working up the juggy entry crack.
Working up the juggy entry crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sautanz begins up the major crack system, and the ...
Sautanz begins up the major crack system, and the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kurt on the cover of the first issue of the magazi...
Kurt on the cover of the first issue of the magazi...
Rock Climbing Photo: A satyrical painting inspired by the name of the r...
A satyrical painting inspired by the name of the r...

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