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TeePee Wall
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A Peney for your freedom T 
English Channel T 
Fool in the Forest T 
Half Man, Half Wit T 
Kissing Pigs T 
Oddy's Crack of Horror T 
Rise & Shine T 
Rope Monster TR 
Sauron's Bolt of Horror T 
Woodland Idiot T 
Yodellaybackloon T 

Sauron's Bolt of Horror 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Autumn 2011 Michael Gray & Tom Lane
Season: April - Nov
Page Views: 76
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Apr 18, 2012

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Michael Gray tackling the pumpy start to the crux.


The moves may not be as difficult as the rating suggests, but placing/removing gear in the midst of them certainly ups the ante sufficiently to justify the grade.
Difficult moves up the initial seam and past the small overhang near the base of the route (avec 1 bolt) gain a stance below the remainder of this route: an overhanging crack/layback edge. No routefinding difficulties here: obtain the ledge.


Technically on the "Land of Overhangs" Wall, but it lies directly above and left of the main TeePee Wall: the steep face with this unmistakeable splitter crack.


Tight tips to full hand size. One bolt enroute.
Rappel off tree anchor, or walk climber's left 100 yards to scramble down to the base.

Photos of Sauron's Bolt of Horror Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Gray on Sauron's Bolt of Horror, 5.10c
Mike Gray on Sauron's Bolt of Horror, 5.10c

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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 7, 2012

There's also a walkoff climber's right that takes you down to the base of Long Play.

This is left of the TeePee Wall, and although it appears to be its own section of wall, it's unlikely any more routes will be developed here so the HOL3/Mordor Wall designation could probably be dropped (?) and that other section completely removed from MP.

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