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Saul's Crack T 
Sloth (HVS 5a), The T 

Saul's Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Joe Brown 1947
Season: When it's dry
Page Views: 885
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Nov 23, 2007

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Getting to grips with the corner crack.


A Joe Brown tour-de-force and a must-do while visiting.

Easily at first up to beneath and slightly right of the corner crack, now the fun begins; somehow gain the corner and jam/lieback up it to the overhang. Go through the overhang (crux) to easier climbing.


Left of the big roof of The Sloth, a crack runs up a left facing corner and through a small overhang.


Nuts and cams.

Photos of Saul's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony at the crux.
Tony at the crux.

Comments on Saul's Crack Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Nov 23, 2007

5.9 just doesn't describe this route - I have a lot of history with this one, a love/hate relationship I suppose. Got badly spanked on my first attempt, in those days it was rated "VS" .
By Nick Russell
From: Bristol, UK
Jul 8, 2013

Maybe it's just that my jamming is a bit rusty, but I definitely found the bulge beneath the roof to be the crux. The roof itself was gymnastic, but pretty straightforward.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 13, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Often green and damp beneath the overhang.
By Brad Warne
From: Calgary, Alberta
Oct 18, 2015

Thought it was a great route!

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