Saucerful of Secrets
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Josh on the crux arete pitch of the route. Novembe...
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Saucerful of Secrets
features a hidden beautiful overhanging arete pitch that is worth the effort required to get to it. This route is likely shaded much of the time and is likely relatively well-protected from the wind.
The first 2 pitches are shared with Cartwright Corner
. Climb cracks on the general right side of the large bush-filled chimney right of Community Pillar
- it's not as bad as it appears (2 pitches, 5.8, 100', and 5.9, 120'). The obvious overhanging prow looms above. A 50' pitch 3 (5.7) up blocks gets you to the base of the arete.
The crux prow pitch is hard 5.11 with no rests for the better part of 150'. Clip a bolt just above the belay, then climb a thin crack to a hand crack, then step left of the prow. Make wild moves, switching sides of the bolted overhanging arete to a bolted anchor. A short but fun 50' all-bolted 5.10c pitch up an off-balance flared corner reaches the top.
Rap the route with 2 ropes.
This secluded route is approached by climbing the 1st 2 pitches of Cartwright Corner
, which is just right of Community Pillar
on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon.
Single rack from TCUs to 3", including 10+ quickdraws.
By Scott Bennett
May 8, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cool climb in an unlikley spot. Lots of cool arete sequences, seperated by good stances. Definitely felt easier than the neighboring crack climb, "Dark and Long".
By Will Wright
Apr 10, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
This is probably the best arete climb I have ever done. There is a certain blind-ish move crossing the edge rightward that is unforgettable.
Unfortunately, you have to climb 300ft of choss to gain the good stuff. Maybe the best way is to climb a nearby route, and rap in from the top? Didn't do the 10c finish, but it looks good.