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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Moore and Darryl Bornhop 2012
Page Views: 5,732
Submitted By: Kate Mittendorf on Nov 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (92)
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BETA PHOTO: The rope is going up the line of this 5.8!


This is a long and fun jug-haul that is really well protected. There are a LOT of bolts. It's possible many climbers of the grade won't have enough draws, but if you are a 5.8-5.9 climber this is not to be missed. Easy climbing to the little roof and then things get more interesting from there. If you are more experienced, you can easily downclimb a couple moves and grab your draws from below you when the bolt spacing is close together so as to have enough draws to protect the whole thing.


This is a new 5.8 line toward the left end of the Jimmywood area, between Flim Flam and Finger Puppets. It's one of the tallest routes for the grade and is a fun gym-like jug haul. Starts on a slab below a tree on a ledge above the trail and goes up into a roof.


12 bolts, bolted anchors. Full rope length is needed. You can scramble up the little slab and belay from the ledge if you have chopped your rope at all.

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By Blake Allen Green
Apr 6, 2014

Chatt steel says "destined to become a popular moderate." This is true as it is one of few routes below 5.9 at Foster and has generally enjoyable climbing. That being said, the couple of detractors are the number of bolts/placements and the number of features that are loose or flexing and prime to be ripped off. Particularly when lowering down the route, I encountered several loose features that I was worried about dropping on those below. Wear a helmet, bring some 24" slings to clip the odd bolts so rope drag doesn't get heinous.
By Pjm
Apr 14, 2014

Great route! Very good lead for both trad
and sport. It climbs at. 5.6 with the only 5.8 move
at the roof. Nice and tall and fun for all.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Jun 8, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very nice, almost as much fun as Ruben just to the left. I didn't run across any loose or suspect rock when I led it.
By Punter Brewster
From: Chattanooga, TN
Mar 20, 2017

Mostly good, but not "great". Pulling the small roof and the rest of the line to the anchors make up for the less than stellar rock below.
By zachj Farris
May 13, 2017

Fun, easy climbing. Way TOO many bolts. In fact, at some bolt locations you can simply reach back behind you and grab your last clip and re-clip it into the current bolt if you think you might be running low on draws. Long, easy warm up climb for the area.

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