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Satan's Toy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Paul Glover, Kirk Speers
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 326
Submitted By: Paul Glover on May 28, 2010

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  • Description 

    This is the short wild overhang to the right to the Devil's Arch cave about 80m. Climb easy ground (5.4) to the beginning of a left traversing crack on the lower right side of the overhang. Put in a 3.5 Camalot with an extended runner. Traverse up and left (5.10+) placing shallow cams (a 3 Camalot to get started, then medium cams) and beware a massive chopper block you must straddle and climb over. Then head up to the base of the roof. Place a small cam (I put in a yellow Alien) and head up right towards the obvious giant bucket and top out. Also possible to head left on easy ground (5.8) and skip the roof but who would want to do that?

    Protection 

    Cams to #3.5 Camalot. many choices for anchor building on top


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