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Routes in The Dihedrals
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Arete Style Dysfunction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Arrow, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Billy Tipton T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Arete TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Buzz Junky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cotter's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Day Tripper T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Devil Won't Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Devil's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Face off in Albania S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuzzy Tights T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Haggis T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Head Cement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Juicer, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Prepare to meet thy God T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Racing Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Satan's Ceiling T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Thanador S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Trick Bag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Trojan Elite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twin Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 910 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Rafiki on Jul 8, 2007 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Jim Lawyer |
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Access Issue: Unknown Private Land Issues
Details
This crag is on private property. CSX owns the tracks you must cross to get to the crag, but apparently they don't seem to care. The actual cliff is owned by an unknown private individual who's policy hasn't been established.
Due to an unfriendly owner, several years ago nearly all of the routes were stripped of fixed protection, including anchors.
Due to an unfriendly owner, several years ago nearly all of the routes were stripped of fixed protection, including anchors.
Description
In my opinion, this is the best trad climb in Little Falls. I drove 3hrs+ after work one night just to climb this line. The move over the roof is wild.
Climb a crack to a ledge below a roof. Instead of climbing straight up through the chockstone as for Devil Won't Care, move out left through a flake on the roof (crux).
In the old guidebook, "Satan's Ceiling" climbs the direct face to the left of the crack at 10c. A more difficult climb, but less aesthetic and the pro sucks. I would recommend climbing Devil Won't Care to the roof and moving out the flake as I have described.
Climb a crack to a ledge below a roof. Instead of climbing straight up through the chockstone as for Devil Won't Care, move out left through a flake on the roof (crux).
In the old guidebook, "Satan's Ceiling" climbs the direct face to the left of the crack at 10c. A more difficult climb, but less aesthetic and the pro sucks. I would recommend climbing Devil Won't Care to the roof and moving out the flake as I have described.
Location
This is on the right side of the Dihedrals. Look for a crack capped by a roof about 55ft up. This climb is just right of a laser-cut dihedral known as Devil's Corner 5.11b.
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