Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Clough State Park
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2 Minutes To Midnight 
A Fistful of Moss 
Ambitious and Disordered 
Another One Bites The Dust 
Ascension 
Bladerunner 
Brass Monkey 
Can Opener, The 
Changing Tides 
Chihuahua 
Clever and Devoted 
Coyote Killer 
Coyotes 
Crystal Blight 
Dance of the Toadstools 
Darkness Falls 
Darkside Project, The 
Devil's Steps, The 
Dragon's Back  
Dragon's Lair 
Dungeon, The 
End of the Line 
Faceful of Dirt 
Final Fantasy 
Fire 
Frog Legs 
Full Tilt 
Golden Nikes, The 
Honky Tonking  
Hot Rod 
Island in the Sun 
It Came From Beneath The Sink 
Lichen It 
Lone Wolf, The 
Lord of the Flies 
Lord Of The Flies Direct 
Lower Jaw 
Mammoth Dyno Project, The 
Most Dangerous Game, The 
Music For The Tilted Generation 
Paro 
Perry's Problem 
Prometheus 
Remedy Project TR 
Satan's Alley 
Sickening , The 
Slaps 
Slot Machine 
State of Fear 
Tears Of A Lone Wolf 
Timeline 
Tooth Fairy 
Top Gun  
Vitality 
White Fire 
Wild Ride Project (Stem Cell Research?) 

Satan's Alley 

Hueco: V2-3 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V2-3 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: Brad Fauteux
New Route: Yes
Season: All Seasons
Page Views: 164
Submitted By: Brad Fauteux on Jan 7, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Start holds used for Satan's Alley

Description 

Start on right side of the face on two flakes. One of them is sideways. One foot on a rail the other pushing on a good foot out right. Make a move left to a sharp sideways flake and match.

Then go up to two more crimps, Use some foot work and get situated for a move to a sloping rail and then the crux going to a sharp crimp jug, which is better if you can get your fingers behind it and full crimp it.

From here get your feet up and make a few more moves to the top using crimps and slopers on the lip. You can only go one way on the top out, a hole where the boulder covering the caves ends, throw a left heel on a good rail and mantle up.

Location 

This route is located inside a cave uphill from Mammoth Rock. The climb up to it tends to be a bit of a trek, especially with pads. You will see an over-hanging rock that juts out about ten feet. The cave is just a few more feet up the hill from the overhang, the top out of the route is actually a part of this overhang. Once you are inside the cave this problem will be on your right side.

Protection 

There is a rock right in the way of the landing, it can easily be covered up with a crash pad and this rock can also be used to scope out the route. I recommend having at least two pads if you want to try this problem.


Photos of Satan's Alley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A picture of the crux, a sharp crimp which feels d...
A picture of the crux, a sharp crimp which feels d...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a picture of the hole you have to topout o...
Here is a picture of the hole you have to topout o...

Comments on Satan's Alley Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brad Fauteux
From: Hopkinton, NH
Jan 10, 2016


Video of Satan's Alley.
By Joe M.
Jan 11, 2016

Pet peeve of mine, but that is not a sit start, it is a tripod start. A sit start is get your hands AND feet on the wall with your butt on the pad and then pull your butt off the pad to start. It's ok to have problems that are a tripod start but please be clear in your problem description as, for some problems, it is much more difficult to do a sit start than it is to do a tripod start...
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Jan 11, 2016

I think it's just the angle of the video that kinda makes it hard to see, but I was there when Brad was first working the problem and his butt definitely came off the pad when he started it, even if it was only a couple inches off the pad for the start and first few moves.

Also Brad noted in the video description (if you click the arrow in the upper right of the video, a link will pop up and if you click this you can watch it on youtube) that he's aware he dabbed in the video at around 1:57 and so he went back and did the climb again afterwards.

Also are tripod starts actually a thing? Like do some problems normally start like that? I've never heard this term before so just curious, it sounds like it would be a pretty bad boulder problem if it started with your butt not even leaving the ground until after the first move haha.
By eddysamson
Jan 11, 2016

Been climbing since 2007 and I've never heard the term "tripod start"
By Brad Fauteux
From: Hopkinton, NH
Jan 12, 2016

Not familiar with the tripod start. Maybe there could be tripod and sit variations.
By Joe M.
Jan 12, 2016

Been climbing since 1992, so maybe it's an old guy thing....

Tripod start (as demonstrated in the above video) means having three appendages (2 feet, one hand or 2 hands, one foot) on the rock (Tri) and one on the ground (pod), and then starting, usually with a subtle, or not so subtle, push off the ground...