REI Community
search
Pentapitch Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dike from Hell T 
Endless Torment T 
Flashdance T,TR 
Ginseng T 
Jackalope  T 
Japanese Terraces T 
Lesbian Seagulls S 
Littlefoot T 
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 
Neuromancer S 
Nubbins Direct T 
Nubbins to Nowhere T 
Pearls Before Swine S 
Pentapass T 
Pentapitch T 
Pudgy Gumbies T 
Sasquatch T 

Sasquatch 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Lynn Wheeler, Dan Hall, Jim Irvine, 1977
Page Views: 21,143
Submitted By: Mike Kempt on Sep 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (395)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Dragan the Sasquatch slayer!

  • Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    High quality single pitch trad line. Fun moves on excellent rock. Thin crack crux above small roof protects well.

    Protection 

    #3 Camalot at start, then TCU's or stoppers. A few long runners helpful. Chains at top for anchor.

    Location 

    The start is found on a ledge to the right of Pentapitch and just above the level of the top of the first pitch belay of Pentapitch.

    The easiest way to get there is to climb the first pitch of Pentapitch and go right of the tree and up to the ledge rather than left of the tree.


    Photos of Sasquatch Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike White on the tips section of Sasquatch. What'...
    Mike White on the tips section of Sasquatch. What'...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging around waiting for the roof to come to him...
    Hanging around waiting for the roof to come to him...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting into the biz
    Starting into the biz
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Billings behind the camera.
    Jason Billings behind the camera.
    Rock Climbing Photo: looking up the sweet sweet crack
    looking up the sweet sweet crack
    Rock Climbing Photo: Trinity found the crack to be a bit rattley for he...
    Trinity found the crack to be a bit rattley for he...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tom needs to wear this helmet on the bus too.
    Tom needs to wear this helmet on the bus too.
    Rock Climbing Photo: glen in his tennis shoes bout to pull the roof.
    glen in his tennis shoes bout to pull the roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crack Attack!
    Crack Attack!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Melissa at the start of Sasquatch
    Melissa at the start of Sasquatch
    Rock Climbing Photo: John heading through the roof!
    John heading through the roof!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lamb at the top of her Sasquatch lead.
    Lamb at the top of her Sasquatch lead.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike White  through the crux and heading home.
    Mike White through the crux and heading home.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Maura Hahnenberger coming up Sasquatch.
    Maura Hahnenberger coming up Sasquatch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The ole Sasquatch traverse
    The ole Sasquatch traverse
    Rock Climbing Photo: From the belay at the bottom of Sasquatch
    From the belay at the bottom of Sasquatch
    Rock Climbing Photo: Not as steep as people say
    Not as steep as people say
    Rock Climbing Photo: Casey passed the thin
    Casey passed the thin
    Rock Climbing Photo: local badass on sasquatch
    local badass on sasquatch

    Comments on Sasquatch Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 16, 2017
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 19, 2002

    it is a great line i love hitting it at least 4or5 times a season
    By Anonymous Coward
    Mar 21, 2003

    The Best ***
    By jeff newsom
    Oct 30, 2003

    Howdy Folks- Nice page! I had a chance to climb this route with Lynn Wheeler shortly after the first ascent. I did many climbs with Lynn back in those days. Great to see Little CottonWood still receiving so much attention. Wheeler was one of a kind. Cheers!---Jeff Newsom
    By Peter Gram
    Administrator
    From: Cupertino, CA
    May 6, 2004

    Great fun.
    By kBobby Hanson
    From: Spokane, WA
    Dec 1, 2004
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    This is my favorite single pitch of climbing anywhere!

    This is an easier lead than the Green Adjective (better pro); if you've done the Green A, you gotta do this one.

    Mike suggests bringing a #3 camalot for the start. The start is a traversing undercling. It can be protected with either a #3 or a #2. However, it isn't a very good spot to stop and place a piece. If you just traverse past it, you will get to a great spot to plug in a #0.75. Above, you won't need anything bigger (I sometimes put a #1 in just below the roof), and you can leave the heavier stuff at home.

    I would, however, recommend carring small cams in the blue and green alien range.

    If you link this up with the top of Pentapitch, you won't need the big stuff up there either.
    By vincent pierce
    May 9, 2005
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Great climb that protects really well! One foot in the thin crack and one foot smearing the smooth lcc granite. Trust it!
    By Nathan Fisher
    Aug 2, 2005
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    This crack eats up those nuts. Cams are nice, but live a little.
    By Erik Gillis
    Nov 11, 2005
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I loved this climb!! I lead it and found it hard to make nut placements though. I thought that the Green A was easier, as far as protecting, but that is just me. All in all a wonderful climb.
    By Shaun Greene
    From: www.UtahShaun.com
    Aug 28, 2006
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    This is a great line for aspiring 5.9 leaders. There are ample opportunities to place gear wether cams or nuts. It takes both equally well. Just get up on it. Definately a classic hands/fingers climb!!
    By Nate Furman
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Apr 14, 2007

    What a great pitch. Top-roped it a bunch today. The crux is very distinct and ticklish, just a couple/few moves using just tips in the cracks and feet that aren't substantial. I can't wait to go back and do it again.
    --Nate
    By icsteveoh
    From: salt lake city, UT
    Jun 17, 2007
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    what a wasatch gem...
    By oliver
    Jun 23, 2007

    That is one of the best climbs I have ever done. just a good enjoyable crack with a little varation here and there.
    By Stymingersfink
    May 7, 2008

    For a Traditional good time, lead it on all passive gear!
    By Tyler King
    From: Salt Lake, UT
    Jun 27, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    One of my favorite routes in LCC. I thought that this was a bit easier than the coffin and Green-A. Maybe that's cause it sewed up and the holds were all there, except maybe that "tips" section which caused me to second guess and forfeit the onsight :( Great for beginning 5.9 trad leader!
    By Casey Jenen
    Jul 23, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    This is on my list for best climbs in LCC, I think it is an awesome lead for new 5.9 climbers because protection is good. This is just a great route should not miss this one.
    By Tosh Peters
    From: Park City, UT
    Jul 23, 2008
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    another must do lcc route. the tips section was intense and the gear is really good the whole route. i would say the leave the number 3 at home because there are places at the start that take nuts. there is a pretty easy traverse to the belay from the top of the first pitch of pentapitch. I took my buddy on this for his first crack climb and he loved it.
    By Jared Hargrave
    From: Salt Lake City, UT.
    Sep 14, 2008
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Is it just me or does this seem like a soft 5.9. I climbed it today and it is my first 5.9 trad lead. Did it no problem. Maybe I'm just improving (or have thin fingers,) but I had a hell of a lot harder leads on 5.8's, Satan's Corner for example. Or maybe I just psyched myself up for my first 5.9 for so long that when it turned out to be not so bad it was a bit of a let down. Don't get me wrong, it is an AWESOME crack climb. I just was expecting to get more scared on this one.
    By grk10vq
    Administrator
    Sep 15, 2008

    the rating is fair, you're just incredibly strong. take your guns to the green A and do gordon's hangover. that ones soft for the grade as well. don't forget to spray, i mean, tell us all about it.
    By Tea
    Oct 8, 2008

    What's with the sloppy gloop around the 3! bolts and the longshoreman's shipping chain? Holy anchor your tugboat to that bad-boy! (also...there is an active bee's nest in the tree trunk at the lower anchor)
    By Shaun Greene
    From: www.UtahShaun.com
    Mar 9, 2009
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I would like to contribute to the rating argument. Just to stir the waters...But really, If bushwack crack is 5.8 how can this climb be 5.9+? Must be the grease factor on bushwack that makes it feel harder than sasquatch..
    By grk10vq
    Administrator
    Mar 9, 2009

    i'd like to contribute how important, accurate, and final, ratings are . . . always.
    By Boissal
    From: Small Lake, UT
    Aug 21, 2009
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Did this again recently. Solid 5.9b.
    By Brian G
    May 21, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    One of the best (for my) finger(s) cracks in the canyon. I love this line and always enjoy it. Super good gear the whole way!
    By Michael Buchanan
    Aug 17, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Awesome route. Easier and less sustained then the Green A, but the ambiance of the trees makes you feel like you are in a better place. Love this climb!
    By Josh Cameron
    From: California in my Mind
    Jul 4, 2011
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Once you get above the roof, the climbing is simply awesome and rivals any 5.9 finger crack in Yosemite.
    By Stan Pitcher
    From: SLC, UT
    Aug 1, 2011

    ^^^ That's what I said yesterday - its Yosemite in the Wasatch! So superb!!! Leaving the crack right below the top for the slab is a nice way to finish.
    By sean roberds
    From: sandy,ut
    Apr 24, 2012

    A nice fun variation is pulling off to the right to the bolts after th crux. makes for some great fun.
    By Boissal
    From: Small Lake, UT
    Apr 25, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Sean, that would be Littlefoot, fun touchy S side slab.
    By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    May 27, 2013
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    One of those climbs that will vary in difficulty wildly depending on finger size. I have monster fingers so it was a desperate Green A style smearfest on greasy edges. The climb probably feels 5.8 or easier for people with small fingers.
    By Charlie S
    From: Ogden, UT
    Jul 20, 2013

    One of the best cracks in Little Cottonwood. I think it's harder than Green A, but whatever. Doesn't change the quality!
    By klane Lane
    Jul 29, 2013

    Amazing finger crack--perfect for lady fingers!!
    By S.Cohen
    Sep 23, 2014

    Just did this one again today and again, it was all time. Some thin fingers and some bomber fingers. The slabby face provides an excellent ending to this classic LCC crack.
    By Jeremy Polk
    From: Sandy, UT
    Sep 5, 2015

    Climbed this in the dark last night with headlamps. Can't get over how rad this climb is! A #3 works for the start but a #4 works way better if you have it. IMO the crux section takes nuts better than cams.
    By dave Hause
    From: carrboro, nc
    Jul 8, 2016
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    So rad.
    By bus driver
    6 days ago

    Deez nuts!

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About