REI Community
Lake Pleasant Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barrel of Monkeys T,TR 
Mr Potato Head TR 
Mutant Toy TR 
Rex TR 
Sarge T,TR 
Squeaky Toy Aliens T,TR 

Sarge 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 42'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Paris, July 2008
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: Nolan Huther on Aug 20, 2016

You & This Route
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

25' to the right of Barrel of Monkeys, look up for a series of small cracks below a fixed anchor (the second anchor set from the left). Start at a series of square-ish holds up to a pair of cruxy thin cracks, then up to horizontal blocks, through some seams to a ledge with a fixed anchor above your head.

An alternative start uses the left-facing corner to the right of this route, which climbs through the corner to a jug, then up and joining the route as usual (5.6+)

Or climb the smooth face to the right of this route with the use of a horizontal for a 5.10c toprope climb, called "Stinky Pete" (FA Peter Whitmore, April 2009)

Location 

The left end of the cliff, 25' to the right of Barrel of Monkeys. Look up for an orange nose sticking out of the cliff and a fixed anchor. The anchor can be accessed by rappelling in from above, it cannot be reached by reaching over the edge as it is with many other routes.

Protection 

This route is labeled G in Adirondack Rock, but I looked it over on toprope, and I was glad to not be on lead as some gear placements could difficult to find without using suspect rock. Many blocks on this route are stable, but I wouldn't trust them with a fall.


Comments on Sarge Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About