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YDS: 5.14- French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.14- French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Tommy Caldwell
Page Views: 8,387
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Aug 3, 2004

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Nick Duttle sending this brilliant alpine route. ...

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This route is the brilliant clean arete on the right side of the Ships Prow. Direct start to the Baloney Pony (5.12c). Start Just right of the arete and grab holds and no holds for 8 bolts to an obvious jug where the first pitch of Baloney Pony meets the arete. Put in a couple of stoppers and mantle to the anchors. I would say the business is somewhere between the sixth and eighth bolt but the whole bloody thing is hard.


Although this is primarily a sport route you do need to bring a couple mid-range stoppers for the top. 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor with slings and biners.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Sarchasm. Brilliant. My Dad has a hazardous tenden...
Sarchasm. Brilliant. My Dad has a hazardous tenden...

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By Jim Redo
Aug 8, 2004

Matt, I wish I could claim that I sent this route but I did not. I just wanted to add the route to the spraytabase.

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