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YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: A. Miller, P. Steadman, 2004
Page Views: 1,684
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Mar 8, 2006  with updates from George Perkins

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Sapien action. February 2012.


The start climbs past two bolts on low angle rock. After cliping a bolt just where the overhang begins, push yourself through STEEP overhanging rock, clipping four fixed draws, then going over the lip. Take a good rest and finish on a 5.11d roof at the top of the route. Watch the cactus following the 5.11d roof, removing cactus splinters for the next two days was NOT the highlight of my climbing trip!


Two routes left of Clovis Hunter with a series of four fixed cable draws and two chain draws in the steep middle section of the route.


Bolts to anchors.

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By Amy Jordan
Mar 17, 2007
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Sapien was my FAVORITE route in the cave, but it recently lost some critical rock in the middle, bumping the grade up to 12d (so they say---I haven't been on it since).
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 2, 2008
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

The route definitely feels more sustained now with the missing jug and heel hooking ledge gone between the 1st and second bolts. The second clip is sort of cruxy now. Perhaps now a little closer to the original 12d rating.
By MattL
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I would agree that it feels more like 12d after the recent rockfall. There is a crucial crimp near the fourth fixed chain that looks fractured - might come off soon if not reinforced...If it fell off it could raise the difficulty by a letter grade.
By Keith Beckley
Nov 19, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Wonderful sequential climbing up edges and underclings.
By Grindrite
Apr 13, 2016

Aaron Miller has sent it with a new upper sequence.

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