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Sanitarium Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Wilson On The Drums on Apr 5, 2013


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The Sanitarium is part of the Robinson Rock area which consists of Sanitarium, Boondoggle Wall, and the Cell one tower. It is off the beaten path and has a good concentration of trad climbs as well as a few amazing boulders that should not be missed. The grades start in the 9 range and go up to 11s and include an open project. As far as bouldering there are 4 established problems that go from V0 to V5 Pg-13.

Getting There 

The approach is not bad but can get a little confusing. If you are coming from the pull off for the South Seas you would take the trail downhill passing formations like Shark's Fin and Toy Tug Boat. If you are coming from the Wrinkled Rock parking lot you will still head downhill and pass formations like the Reefs (1-3) and Child Molar. Either way you go you are basically walking away from the road and heading towards Baldy. Both ways will bring you to a well defined path that runs left to right. Go left on this trail and walk for roughly 200 yards. At some point you'll see a large pine that has a sort of lean-to against it. There is usually some birch sticks on the ground here making an arrow. Take a right at the pine on a pretty good path. Follow this until another pine that has a Black Hills Forest marker on it. Merge left here on another path, it is only a short jaunt uphill from here and it tends to go to the right. You will come across the Sanitarium Boulders first and then the Sanitarium formation itself.

Climbing Season

For the Mount Baldy / "old baldy" area.

Weather station 1.7 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Sanitarium
Rock Climbing Photo: the to-do problem

Superfly V5 6C  South Dakota : The Needles Of Rushmore : ... : Sanitarium
If 4on6 and Seul Avec Dieu got together and had a baby it's name would be Superfly. This route is a blast and with more traffic will gain reputation as being a classic. Stand start with right had on a pinch and left foot on good edge. Stand up and get left hand high (as seen in photo). Now for the crux sequence. Pull off an insane left foot high step (circled in photo) and smear and pull (on nothing). Get your right foot on a good edge (underlined in photo) and reestablish your hand on tiny crys...[more]   Browse More Classics in South Dakota

Photos of Sanitarium Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the wall
the wall
Rock Climbing Photo: the path
the path

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