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Sanitarium - Irie Headwall pitch 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Worrell, et all.
Page Views: 377
Submitted By: SCherry on Jan 8, 2012

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Description 

  • *note - Sanitarium is a 4 pitch climb that you can begin from the base of the wall, but its also quite easy to rap and access a big broken ledge system in the middle of the summit wall. A lot of classic climbs tackle the beautiful orange face above this ledge, dubbed the "Irie Headwall", which is about 200 feet high. I've climbed at this area a few times and its much easier to hike the main trial to the top of the summit crag and rap in/climb out. Thus the reason I've listed many of top pitches only.

Starting off the ledge and the only set of anchors (obvious) in the boulder pile at the base of the "Irie Headwall". Make a move to get established to the right of the starting anchors, then clip the first of 3 bolts up a slab leading to the base of the corner and an obvious crack (10a).

Pull up into the crack system and jam or undercling into the start of the corner where the difficulties begin. Continue to layback and stem up the featured holds in the corner until the good holds following this corner feature go away(11a).

You'll then spy a series of holds traversing right in the immaculate orange stone (crux - 11c?) follow just the right amount of features as you traverse on slopey pocket feet, and classic EP flat-top holds. At the far right end of the traverse there is a jug and a rest stance in the apex of the face (at this point you'll actually be at the same rest stance at the top of the crux on the neighboring route).

From here climb up and left back into the corner to a rest on jugs. Then negotiate the final roof crux, moving left out amazing in-cut holds to a stance over the roof (11b). Keep traversing a few final moves to an anchor above a small 1x3 ledge thats just out of sight to your left. Phew...this thing is classic action packed sport wanking and totally amazing.

Location 

From the top of the Summit Crag locate the obvious rap rings on the climbers left side of the buttress. This is for the route Where Eagles Dare. Rap twice to access the large ledge at the base of the Irie Headwall. Walk climbers right to the boulders at the base of the big beautiful orange face and you will see a set of anchors. The 3rd pitch begins here.

This pitch follows an amazing and obvious corner system on the left side of the beautiful orange face. It ends at rap rings where you can lower back to the ledge, or alternately do another shorter pitch to the walls top.

Protection 

Bolts


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