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Sandstonia

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.5 My Ass S 
Assman S 
Badass Tattoo S 
Barb Wire S 
Bass Ackwards S 
Bikini Line S 
Bobby D's Bunny S 
Booby Prize S 
Butterfly Flake S 
Celtic Sun S 
Centennial S 
Clean Shaved S 
Crescendo S 
Decameron, The S 
G-String S 
Geisha Girl S 
Good Book, The S 
Hardcore Female Rash S 
Hepatitis C S 
ISO 9000 S 
Jaws of Life S 
Kinesthetica S 
Layback and Enjoy It S 
Lord of the Jungle T 
Mike Tyson's Face S 
Mrs. Field's Follies S 
One Repetition Max S 
Pay It Forward S 
Plumber's Crack T 
Pure Power S 
Shady Lady S 
Weisenheimer Brainstorm S 
Witches of Bangor S 
Zeitgeist S 

Sandstonia Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.10049, -81.09596 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 30,975
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Sep 5, 2006
Forecast:
This Afternoon

43° | 31°
Thursday

38° | 22°
Friday

30° | 20°
Saturday

32° | 23°
Sunday

42° | 31°
Monday

42° | 30°
You & This Area
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View of this cliff from the approach trail, easies...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the three areas in the region that presents an abundance of bolted routes 5.10 and under (the other two being Butcher's Branch and Orange Oswald). The tall, 90+ ft wall is the showcase of the area. Get here early, or on a weekday if you don't dig crowds or waiting in lines.

You will notice an "X" on a lot of the rocks here. This is because it is primarily a place for beginners that have a lack of knowledge. Please do not write anything on the walls in chalk. The routes at this area have been climbed thousands of times and if the rocks were going to pull out of the wall then they would have by now. There are still rocks at the top of the cliff that aren't necessarily used as holds so please be safe.

Getting There 

Park at the Good Luck Cemetery on your left (coming from 19). Follow the power line cut to the fourth tower and take a left at the sign that says "Sandstonia" Follow the well traveled trail slightly downhill and right until you get to a rocky gully usually marked with two cairns on either side. This begins the switchback trail designed and built by NRAC and volunteers. The old trail followed a treacherous, steep, ankle-twisting gully and the new trail is quite comfortable and easily navigated. Yet another reason to donate to NRAC. The trail spits you out right at the beginning of the Sandstonia/Tattoo Wall at the first short route on the wall; Hardcore Female Rash. Total approach time is 30 minutes or under.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

34 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',11],['5.11',8],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sandstonia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sandstonia:
Plumber's Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Bobby D's Bunny   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Butterfly Flake   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Shady Lady   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Mrs. Field's Follies   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Geisha Girl   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Crescendo   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 60'   
The Good Book   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Zeitgeist   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 85'   
Badass Tattoo   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   
Decameron, The   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Kinesthetica   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Witches of Bangor   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Booby Prize   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   
Layback and Enjoy It   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 60'   
G-String   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Jaws of Life   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
ISO 9000   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Lord of the Jungle   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Mike Tyson's Face   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sandstonia

Featured Route For Sandstonia
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff moving beyond the notorious roof.

Mrs. Field's Follies 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Sandstonia
This is a really fun route with a crack, some face, and an overhang on really nice rock.Start as for Geisha Girl by climbing the wide crack, then straight up to the intimidating roof (easier than it looks). Surmount the roof to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Comments on Sandstonia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jamie E
Oct 31, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
Just FYI for those climbing here: IGNORE THE ADVICE ABOVE ABOUT DISREGARDING "X" CHALK MARKS!!! There is quite a bit of loose choss left on this cliff. I was climbing here yesterday and watched a few softball-sized chunks get pulled off of the top of G-String. Luckily no one got hurt, but watch out up there!
By JohnnyRemein
From: Asheville
Nov 1, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
Definitely look out for loose rock here, even if there isn't an X on it. Agree that wearing a helmet and staying aware should be practiced at all times at this cliff (and every other). Also, disregard this from above: "The routes at this area have been climbed thousands of times and if the rocks were going to pull out of the wall then they would have by now."

Be safe and have fun out there!
By BrianWS
Oct 31, 2016
Jamie -
The area has always been home to loose rock, and given the moderate nature of the climbing, it will continue to remain so despite the huge amount of traffic.

This is a primarily beginner crag, and being full of inexperienced climbers, the use of chalk markers tends to be way overzealous and in many cases definitely not necessary. Furthermore, it is ugly as hell and a big eyesore. The comment about disregarding the chalk marks is partially meant to dissuade new climbers from marking the hell out of the cliffs.

If you are concerned about the loose stone, wear helmets and have your group on the ground be extra vigilant - part of learning to climb outdoors is recognizing loose rock and other objective hazards without everything being marked to hell and back again.