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Sandstone Canyon

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Bonnie's Pillar 
Gecko Wall 

Sandstone Canyon Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 36.06242, -115.47315 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 449
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: DesertDan on Jul 24, 2017
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Spring Mt Ranch State Park boundaries from gisgate...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Long considered off limits by the lay climber because of the zealous guarding of the canyon entrance by Spring Mt Ranch State Park, which owns the entire mouth of the canyon. This has led to Sandstone Canyon being underdeveloped climbing-wise compared to the rest of Red Rock. However, climbers have been coming here for a long time. Around 1990 I heard Wendell Broussard talk of climbing here years before. They had climbed one of the stellar cracks on the south side of the canyon by the entrance certain that they were doing a first ascent only to find old rotted webbing at the top. That said, Sandstone Canyon is full of long awesome routes up to 1500+ feet tall.

Getting There 

1. The best legal access is from the backside. Go to the second dirt road, Rainbow Springs Rd, one mile up Lovell Canyon Rd from Hwy 160 and turn right. Park several miles up at Rainbow Springs (or as far as the road goes). Most cars can make all but the last part of this road. Hike east over the Keystone Thrust.
2. A few hundred feet on the east side of Mt Springs Pass turn north on Mater Mea Pl. The road immediately splits three ways, take the right fork up the hill and park in a wide spot before the cell tower. Continue on the road which quickly morphs into an unofficial trail to the Keystone Thrust Fault and along the ridge to the back of the canyon, a superb hike in it’s own right and a long approach.
3. Park at First Creek, hike to the base of the escarpment and cross country to the canyon. Spring Mt Ranch owns the entire mouth of the canyon so, to avoid trespassing, check the map and make sure you’re up high enough to avoid their property.
4. We used to obtain permission from Bonnie Springs to hike and climb back here by promising to grab a burger and beer at the end of the day when we returned. Because Spring Mt Ranch owns the land all the way up onto vertical cliffs on the south side of the canyon, it would still be trespassing to walk into the canyon here. But Mustang Canyon and other cliffs can still be legally accessed this way :)

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.9 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Sandstone Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper section of Floating Rib, this part's abo...

Floating Rib 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Bonnie's Pillar
We climbed up and left out of the north gully on a steep, dark face down low to gain the bushy ramp up to the base of the pillars. This first pitch turned out to be the crux of the route at 5.9 but there’re many ways to reach this ramp and the rest of the climb was 5.8 or less. Boulder, scramble, and short rope to the toe of the left pillar. Climb easy face and cracks up and left to the bottom of a long, shallow, right-facing dihedral. This dihedral is the right side of a rib of rock that form...[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

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Rock Climbing Photo: Sandstone Canyon.
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