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The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
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Sands of Iwo Jima S 
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Where's Ray? S 

Sands of Iwo Jima 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand, 10/8/2007
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 6 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,217
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Oct 8, 2007

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Great tip laybacks lead to the third bolt. Photo b...

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  • Description 

    Exquisite position and movement. You will encounter laybacks, smears, crimps, palming, dynos, backsteps, flags, and an overhang. Quite a few moves packed into a short pitch 200 feet above the ground. Clip the first bolt by climbing near the anchors and reaching right. Then start climbing below the first bolt. This is so you do not fall directly onto the belay. There is one rest below the overhang.

    Location 

    Begin atop Flags of Our Fathers.

    Protection 

    6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


    Comments on Sands of Iwo Jima Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 11, 2013
    By david goldstein
    Oct 13, 2007

    Four star climbing, but 50' is a very generous estimate of its length. Crux is at the 3rd bolt, though there is not a single gimme move; its continuousness reminded me of High Test at Sport Park. The grade seemed tough for an onsight, but not too bad for a redpoint.
    By claytown
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 1, 2008

    Great route. The setting is awesome to start from the top of Bihedral Arete. Tough liebacking moves and hidden holds make it tough to onsight. Sweet route well worth doing.

    CL
    By Dave Pilot
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 15, 2008
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Beautiful! Exposed! Sequential. Hard. Wish it was twice as long. Do it!
    By proto
    From: Falmouth (MA)
    Oct 6, 2009
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Very nice even if it is also very short.
    I agree, not an easy one to onsight although there is no very hard move.
    By Kurt Ross
    From: Boulder, colorado
    Oct 29, 2009

    Very interesting movement. It's tougher than it looks...especially when it's raining.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 9, 2010
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    This route is a whole lot of good for 35 feet of climbing!
    It's all there, but it's got to be hard to onsight.... I popped off of a heel hook while clipping bolt #4 and fell almost to the belay. It was/is a pretty safe, clean fall from anywhere on the route once the first bolt is clipped, even with slack pulled.

    Nice work on finding an improbable line that adds value to the wall.

    I chatted with Greg about this one briefly. Which lead both of us to wonder.... Has ANYONE onsighted this thing yet?
    By Pinklebear
    Jun 9, 2010

    I onsighted it on my second try after hanging the first time!
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 9, 2010

    So, if all these 5.12 climbers are failing to on-sight it, should the rating be raised?? I guess Bob & I originally rated it 5.11c/d, and everyone else has rated it higher. If we had rated it 5.12, would everyone concur?
    By Pinklebear
    Jun 10, 2010

    I think 11+ is fair - it's just a tricky, technical one. And as we all know, 11+ is usually harder than most 5.12a's anyway....
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 10, 2010
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    For what it's worth, I don't consider myself a 5.12 climber for on-sight because it's not a rule of thumb for me. More like 11+... on a good day.
    After surveying friends about this one lately, and hearing of friend's and friend's of friends attempts, I came up with one "nearly." Mark Gay beta-flashed it after watching Jon Sargeant on it (who also did not on-sight).
    I think 11d is fair, but it's just going to be a booger to on-sight. If pre inspected or "sprayed" down fully before giving it a go, it would not be so bad. That's why I personally gave it 11d. It's all there, but it is a booger to read right out of the gate.
    If you give it 5.12, then what's going to happen is people will do a few laps, read point and downgrade it. Perhaps you can safely rate this thing when we can get all climbers to agree if grades are redpoint or on-sight oriented?!?!?
    By Glen Charnoski
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 28, 2011

    Yes, quite harder than it looks! Wasn't sure whether to layback or just krank upward. Couldn't onsight it. Felt like a 12 compared to other 11d's I tried.
    By justin hausmann
    From: Fort collins
    Nov 22, 2012

    11d felt appropriate. Tough to onsight (didn't) but with beta not so bad.
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    Nov 11, 2013
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    My friend Maciej onsighted this thing, but he was a solid 5.12c climber at the time. I think 11d for sure.

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