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Dec 11, 2015
So I'll be heading to Sand Rock for the first time in about 15 years. I also am in the process of replacing all of my gear as the majority of it was sitting in a closet for about 15 years! Up to this point I've replenished my rope, harnesses, shoes, atcs, cleaning gear, and about 12 quickdraws. I plan on mainly doing top rope with my son and wife and was wondering what additional gear I might need for setting up top ropes in most of the areas. If I recall correctly most have nice flakes or trees to anchor on but those things may be long gone since I've been there so I didn't know if there was any other pro I should bring.

Basically looking for any advice on runner lengths, protection, or other whatnot for multi purpose top rope anchoring.

Also if anyone's been there recently what toprope routes they think would be good for short beginners who climb 5.7-9?
Thanks!
NOLAclimber76
Joined Nov 7, 2015
5 points
Dec 11, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Who makes the best rice?
I think you are in for a surprise...SR is like a theme park as compared to 15 years ago.

Virtually all routes have bolted anchors. Two quickdraws or two 24" runners, with biners, should suffice for virtually everything.

60M rope is sufficient for SR.

Any of the easy routes you can assess from the ground and access from the top should be good for your crew.
UncleBen
From Steele, AL
Joined Jan 12, 2007
1,809 points
Dec 11, 2015
Thank You Ben! Much appreciated. My wife will be happy that I don't have any excuses to spend more money at REI...yet! NOLAclimber76
Joined Nov 7, 2015
5 points
Dec 12, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: stone depot
Yea a lot has changed in 15 years. You will not recognize the place. Nice parking lot, paved road, bathrooms. I refer to Sandrock as the outdoor climbing gym. Nob Wall is a super easy climb and lead. You can sling the chicken heads with about 5-6 slings to the open/shut anchors. From the parking lot trail take a right when you come to a dead end and the short wall on your right is full of super easy climvs. You can easily scramble from the back and set up a toprope. Jon Powell
From LAWRENCEVILLE GEORGIA
Joined Jan 23, 2012
115 points
Dec 12, 2015
This is really good to hear! I remember taking trips there and Yonah all the time when I lived in Atlanta. It is good to know some things actually improve with time! Can't wait to take in the view from Sun wall again. NOLAclimber76
Joined Nov 7, 2015
5 points
Dec 17, 2015
I was there this month and I agree spellstrike
From Duluth
Joined Jul 20, 2015
14 points
Dec 17, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Who makes the best rice?
NOLAclimber76 wrote:
It is good to know some things actually improve with time!


VERY subjective.
UncleBen
From Steele, AL
Joined Jan 12, 2007
1,809 points
Dec 17, 2015
Local county mounties still bust people for having booze up there? Alabama, the asshole of the south (I grew up in the deep south, have family in 'bama), about 100years behind the rest of the country with dry counties and other blue laws. Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,377 points
Dec 17, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Stella!
Clearly you've only been to Alabama to call it the asshole of the south. Sandrock is rough but serves its purpose. Raul P
Joined Feb 12, 2013
16 points
Dec 17, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Who makes the best rice?
#GTFO. UncleBen
From Steele, AL
Joined Jan 12, 2007
1,809 points
Dec 17, 2015
Lol keep it civil folks. Also, is it me or have slings gotten MUCH skinnier (unlike southerners) over time? Here is a side by side of a BW runner from 1996 and it's BD replacement for the upcoming trip... NOLAclimber76
Joined Nov 7, 2015
5 points
Dec 17, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: 2015 left vs 1996 right
2015 left vs 1996 right
NOLAclimber76
Joined Nov 7, 2015
5 points
Dec 17, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Best climbing pants EVER
The wider one is a 1/2" nylon/dyneema blend. The new, skinny one is a 10mm dyneema sling. Both are common today. The skinnier ones are more expensive and less durable (win-win for the manufacturers). But of course they are skinnier and less bulky. Pick your poison. Trad/alpine climbers (and those with more money than sense) will buy the 10mm shoelaces, but for recreational toproping with your family, the wider 1/2" slings are probably a better buy.

Either way, your new slings will serve you well and last for a long time. No need for buyer remorse.
Jon H
From Boulder
Joined Nov 24, 2009
138 points
Dec 18, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Who makes the best rice?
I've actually reverted all the way back to 1" nylon for cragging on TAG sandstone. The nylon/dyneema blend is my favorite handling sling, though. Them flossy things are nice for geeking out ultralight or climbing in the alpine, for sure. UncleBen
From Steele, AL
Joined Jan 12, 2007
1,809 points
Dec 30, 2015
Update:
Well the weather Monday did not bode well for us but we pitched camp Monday and awoke to perfectly clear skies, and mid 60s temps. The wind behind the wet front dried up most of the faces (which also provided wonderful protection for our campsite on the north ridge).

I am very pleasantly surprised. The gate attendant was excellent and the office has Dixie Craggers Atlases in stock as well as campfire for sale (campsites picked clean). Wish I knew because I had the second edition and detoured in Birmingham to pick up a 3rd edition. The county is still dry, but I've been sober since 99 that is not a deal breaker :).

The faces look beautiful!, the county and SCC seem to be partnering to clean and maintain the park. I had to go splunking between Jaws and West Rock before I saw any graffiti.

We did get a few local visitors around 3 AM one night but they pretty much stuck to the parking lot and we wouldn't have even known they were there if my wife didn't have me escort her to the bathroom/shower/tornado shelter at the pavilion.

I can imagine this place gets a lot of traffic but the season and the weather seemed to scare everyone away so we had the place all to ourselves with perfect weather.

Well that's it! The rained returned today (30th) and we will probably just tour the corridors with the gopro and maybe grab some food in town. Hope to catch some climbs tomorrow before we head out. Thanks for all the info!
NOLAclimber76
Joined Nov 7, 2015
5 points
Dec 30, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Who makes the best rice?
Good to hear. The SCC has been doing a big graffiti removal initiative.

If you head home past Gadsden, try Velocity Food and Spirits. Best cheeseburgers in Alabama.
UncleBen
From Steele, AL
Joined Jan 12, 2007
1,809 points
Dec 31, 2015
You did not lie my friend. Those were some of the best hamburgers and cheese bread ever! NOLAclimber76
Joined Nov 7, 2015
5 points
Dec 31, 2015
Will S wrote:
Local county mounties still bust people for having booze up there? Alabama, the asshole of the south (I grew up in the deep south, have family in 'bama), about 100years behind the rest of the country with dry counties and other blue laws.

That's the Southeast for you
Avalon'cha
From your girlfriend's bedroom
Joined Aug 30, 2013
3 points


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