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Sand_Castles 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Davidson, Jim Haisley
Page Views: 1,547
Submitted By: Paul Davidson on Aug 14, 2008

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Description 

This is one stellar climb (if you don't mind off widths).

Route climbs the large Coconino wall on the south end of Slide Rock. I believe this would be the north end of Wilson Mountain.
It's the obvious castle shaped Coke wall.

First pitch ascends the absolutely stellar 5.9 finger crack/layback. If you hike to the base, you cannot miss this climb.

Second pitch then goes out the obvious large roof (I won't give away the real way to turn this very intimidating roof into a jug haul.)
Then climb the off width squeeze for a pretty decent long pitch.
Belay has a baby angle. We had one #4 Friend for this pitch which I leap frogged as long as I could until I started running for the belay. Take some a couple of Big Bros and this would actually be fun.

Another pitch of easy scrambling takes you up to the ridge. We rapped off the back side of the ridge with a lot of typical scrambling, 3rd classing, etc... to hit a decent sized pine.

2nd ascent was Dave Houchin in '85 or so.
They thought they were scoring a classic first ascent only to hit the pin on the 2nd pitch belay. Bummer ! But, they good part was, they had all the fun and excitement of doing a first.

Location 

Route climbs the large Coconino wall on the south end of Slide Rock. I believe this would be the north end of Wilson Mountain. It's the obvious castle shaped Coke wall.


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