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Carson's Tower
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Original Route T 
Sand In My Pants T 

Sand In My Pants 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2 [details]
FA: Tristan Higbee, 3/13/09, solo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 876
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Mar 16, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: This is the crux piece for the aid move. Only two ...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on the south edge of the tower and climb 5.7 to a ledge. Then comes the one and only aid move. Stick a lousy cam into a flaring crack (maybe offset cams would work a lot better!), pray that it won't pull, and step up on it. Hope the piece holds, and don't slip, because a fall will land you unpleasantly on the ledge. Once past that move, sling the funky horn with a cordalette, make a couple moves and sling another horn with a regular-length sling. Then comes the free climbing crux. It involves a slopey, sandy 5.8 mantle. If you fall, you'll pendulum down and left... After the mantle you can clip the anchors.

See topo pic for more beta.

As far as I know, this is a new route. If not, let me know and I'll fix it. Not that it means much in the Fishers, but the cracks were very dirty and muddy before I cleaned them out a bit, making me think that it probably hasn't been climbed before. The aid move could perhaps be freed without too much difficulty, but it sure would be scary above that ledge...

Location 

The route starts on the south edge of the tower and then moves around to the east side.

Protection 

A set of cams, one large nut. A cordalette or really long sling, several shoulder-length slings. See topo pic.


Photos of Sand In My Pants Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tristan Hechtel leading Sand in my Pants
Tristan Hechtel leading Sand in my Pants
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta.
BETA PHOTO: Beta.

Comments on Sand In My Pants Add Comment
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 16, 2009

I climbed the Original Route first and then saw this route. At first I thought hmmm... I'll just climb that line next time I'm here. But then I realized that I probably wouldn't come back and that I might as well climb the route while I was already over there. So I climbed the tower twice in about an hour... The other route is easier and better, but this is a good time, as well.
By sibylle
From: Colorado
Mar 21, 2010

We climbed this after doing the original route, since we were there and it was there ...
The start is no longer 5.7 - perhaps numerous holds broke off. It's actually quite tricky, and took Tristan Hechtel three tries to lead. He fell off on an earlier attempt when the hold he was trying to use broke, which leads me to believe that various other holds have also vanished. I resorted to an ertrier on a nut to get on the climb. The start is quite undercut, and the first foothold is a long way up.
Tristan placed a green alien for the higher aid move, which was extremely solid. The ledge he belly-flopped onto was covered with loose rocks, sand, gravel, and mud; plus sloping down. I couldn't get onto the ledge even from standing in the aider, which he left behind. Instead, I pendulumed right and climbed up face moves to the right.

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