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Lower Virgin
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A Fistful of Pesos S 
Bad Cop, No Donut S 
Cabeza de Chivo S 
Charity S 
Don Quixote S 
El Balota S 
Flying Scorpion S 
Mexican Vacation S 
Mexico in Flames S 
Mugre S 
Mugre Mugre S 
Resurrection S 
Sancho Panza S 
Selam S 
Shroud, The S 
Silverfish S 
Thonga de T S 
Tilting at Windmills S 
Trouble at the Border S 

Sancho Panza 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Jeff Jackson – 1989
Page Views: 490
Submitted By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Sancho Panza climbs the face left of the dihedral

Description 

The first bolt is about 10-12 meters off the deck (!), but this section can be protected somewhat by slinging natural thread-throughs (making it ~PG-13 instead of R). Start at the base of Don Quixote but head up left of the dihedral to a small ledge and then climbed clean face left of Don Quixote.

Location 

Just left of Don Quixote.

Protection 

Bolts and slings.


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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 16, 2016

6 bolts, long runner
By Izzy K.
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 23, 2016

Don't worry, the run out to the first bolt is very easy.

I traversed right and ended up finishing on Don Quixote (just after the roof). I recommend trying this for some fun exposure. Since the anchors to DQ are far right, the follower had to clean the route on top.

Didn't get to go back and finish Sancho Panza, but it looks great.
By Johnathan C
From: Missouri
Oct 15, 2016

The run-out on the bottom isn't much to sweat over, but I felt the run-out at the top was sketchy, at least for new 5.11 climbers. It's jug city after the last bolt to the anchors, but it's quite run-out, so it's pretty freaky when you're pumped out. My friend used a sling to feel safer at this section. I think that would be the way to go.
By Ryan Stefani
Nov 29, 2016

To second what everyone else said: the last bit to the anchors is much easier than the rest of the route. Probably 5.8 or less. However, if you bring a 2'/60cm runner, you can thread a hueco quite a bit above the last bolt. That makes it feel not run out at all!

Also, regarding the start, it is also less than 5.8 to get to the bolt. However... Getting to the ledge is like 5.2. Then you have to leave the ledge a make a few easy moves up. Even though they are 5.4 or 5.5, that is a LONG way off the deck. I used a runner around the short and fat tree on the ledge, then clipped a draw to that runner to reduce drag.

I guess the point is, this route has "normal" things you'd do on a trad route. Just make sure you're head is turned on and you have more than the exact # of draws you need and it's fine.