||Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
|Original: || YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||Bob Gray John Gilchrist|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Fall and Spring, not recommended in Summer or Winter|
|Page Views: ||17|
|Submitted By: ||BobGray on Jan 24, 2012|
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Samurai Piton starts just to the right of the lean...
First Pitch goes at 5.11b, follow a thin crack with one piton to a nice ledge. Then move from the ledge to an open book very thin crack with a piton in it (5.12b?). This pitch finishes on a another great belay ledge. Watch for rope drag when pulling the rope from this pitch. Finishes with a 5.11c off-width pitch. Rappel the route. I wore through one of my harness gear loops on this one, squirming in the off-width pitch.
This route starts just below a giant black streak in Reds Canyon Main wall. It starts on the right hand side of the streak, look for a piton with a red carabiner in it about 30 feet up in a crack system. A burly approach a day keeps the climbing hoards away!
Standard Desert rack up to #4