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Sammy-Jo Traceyville 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Marissa Gorman July 19, 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 330
Submitted By: Kris Fiore on Jul 21, 2015

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Navigating the roof section on the FA of Sammy-Jo ...

The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner.

Description 

A committing line that is headier than the moves themselves. Well protected except for the lowest section (5.6). A super fun roof and great laybacking at the top.

Begin on easy loose blocks to a good stance with great pro under the roof. Go ahead and place all seven #3 camalots you have. Establish yourself on good holds to pull out from the roof with some great exposure over raging rapids. A wild position for a 5.9! Finally, work up into a stance in the wide crack before a final pumpy layback crux to the top.

No offwidth technique required. :P

Location 

About 15 feet right of 5th Class. You'll know you've found it if you are standing under a massive fist-sized roof crack.

Protection 

Skip the small stuff, nothing smaller than a .75 is useable. Lead without a #4 although one could be helpful before the layback finish where the crack is wide.

Now has a two-bolt anchor.


Photos of Sammy-Jo Traceyville Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Navigating the roof on the FA of Sammy-Jo Traceyvi...
Navigating the roof on the FA of Sammy-Jo Traceyvi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The line of Sammy-Jo Traceyville. Follow the roof ...
The line of Sammy-Jo Traceyville. Follow the roof ...

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