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Same As It Never Was S 
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Wanted Man T 
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 

Same As It Never Was 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Darrell Hensel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 682
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on May 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: Picture pirated from opening PSOM page, with line ...

Description 

Thin slab to a short section of seam/crack, then finishes on lower angle smearing. Climb crux moves past two bolts to obtain a couple of small holes. From the holes follow the right leaning seam/crack doing a few more hard moves to obtain the large shelf just right of the bush. Five more bolts trend leftwards to the anchor. Despite being lower angle the upper slab has smaller holds and presents a reasonably continuous and surprisingly difficult smearing exercise.

Although the route has cleaned up decently the name sums it up pretty well. A lot of surface scale needed to be cleaned off the upper half of the route. Hopefully this isn't going to be a case of "Same As It Never Will Be" as well. Nonetheless, there is decent climbing throughout the route and even if it does continue to change it shouldn't present a problem due to the slabby nature of the climbing.

If it wasn't for the crispy hold aspect of it the route could probably be given another star - IMO.

Location 

Immediately left of Wanted Man. Single 70m rope to get off. 60m would probably also work by swinging left at the bottom, if needed.

Protection 

9 bolts, 2 ring hangers at anchor (no mussies yet)


Comments on Same As It Never Was Add Comment
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By Jeff Scheuerell
May 20, 2014

I think it's harder
By Darrell Hensel
May 20, 2014

Suggest/adjust the rating, that's what concensus is about. Sometimes I'm guessing at ratings so they may need to change one way or the other. I'd like to know what other people think, because I wasn't sure what to give it.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
May 28, 2014

it also looks way cooler than 2 stars! when's the left variation going up?
By Jeff Scheuerell
Jul 14, 2014

I can't suggest a rating to a route I was unable to do. It may very well be 11c but I was unable to figure it out, next time. You are the slab masters. 1 of the best right here on MP.

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