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Samburu Direct T 

Samburu Direct 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R [details]
FA: Cedar Wright, Maury Birdwell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: MauryB on Feb 2, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Samburu Direct: Pitches 1, 2, & 3


The first free (and currently only) line up the NW face of the Cat. Established on lead, ground up over 3 days and featuring some truly heroic leads by Cedar - particularly his onsight of the 4th pitch amidst literally tons of loose blocks and rocks showering down. There is a fair bit of bird poop to deal with, so get ready to get a little dirty and really scrappy!

Two bolt belays on every pitch, except the summit which could use the addition of an anchor. P2, P4, and P5 could potentially use another bolt or two as well (see attached topo), we simply ran out.

P1 (5.10) Start just downhill from the clearing at the uphill end of the face. A few moderate face moves leads to a blocky weakness, then step up and right to a corner feature and some decent gear. Aiming for the bolts up above on the face. Pull onto the ledge, clip a bolt, and walk left to the belay.

P2 (5.12-) Delicately step left around a loose pillar and work up the corner with some marginal gear for about 20 feet until it is possible to leave the corner and work up and right to a bolt. Follow the bolts up the face, pull the crux to gain the horizontal crack (place a mid sized cam or two to protect your second), cut right and follow the bolts to anchor.

P3 (5.12+) The short, fierce, two bolt roof-crack boulder problem.

P4 (5.12) The mental crux. Mantle up and right to a stance and clip a bolt. Then get wild up the overhanging crack feature. After the angle eases step around left to the other crack, clip a thank-god bolt, and climb to the anchor.

P5 (5.12+) A phenomenal sport pitch which is undoubtedly the best pitch on the route. After the last bolt, get some mid sized gear and dodge right to lower angled terrain. A few bolts could enable a direct finish?


Lookers right side of the overhanging NW face of The Cat.


Single Rack to #4, bolts.

Photos of Samburu Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Samburu Direct: P5
BETA PHOTO: Samburu Direct: P5
Rock Climbing Photo: Samburu Direct Overview
BETA PHOTO: Samburu Direct Overview

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