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Salt Lake Slips

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abracadabra T 
Chalking Dead T,TR 
Double Tap S 
Entre Nous S 
Forgotten Ambition T 
Goth Girls S 
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 
Italian Arete S 
Maudlin S 
Nosferatu S 
Roll the Bones S 
Salem's Lot S,TR 
Senseless Banter T 
Thieving Magpie S 
Use-to-be-bushy T 
Witchhunt S 
Zombieland T 

Salt Lake Slips Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.6226, -111.748 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 41,221
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jonathan Sakai on Jun 19, 2003
Forecast:
This Afternoon

33° | 24°
Sunday

39° | 31°
Monday

31° | 10°
Tuesday

22° | 6°
Wednesday

19° | 4°
Thursday

26° | 18°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

Salt Lake Slips proves that good things can come in small packages. There are only a handful of routes here, but I'll take this sort of quality over quantity any time.

Immediately to the left, there is a 40' cave area with some wicked sport climbs. Up and to the right are several moderate bolted routes.

Getting There 

Salt Lake Slips is about 2.45 miles up Big Cottonwood Canyon on the left side.

Enter through the Storm Mountain Picnic Area, cross the bridge, and walk west past the Storm Mountain Amphitheater.

Go up the hill, turn south, and follow the trail (turning southwest) to the top of the gully above the Slips. Descend the gully to the routes.

During very low water periods, you can park on the road opposite the climbs and safely cross the river. However, crossing the river at any other time is extremely dangerous; people have died attempting it.

An approach map is ?here?.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Salt Lake Slips:
Italian Arete   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   
Maudlin   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
Thieving Magpie   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
High Fructose Corn Syrup   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
Entre Nous   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Forgotten Ambition   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Double Tap   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Chalking Dead   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Witchhunt   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Nosferatu   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Salem's Lot   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Goth Girls   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Salt Lake Slips

Featured Route For Salt Lake Slips
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on TR

Maudlin 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Salt Lake Slips
This bolted, moderate line adds some variety and choice to the few well-protected and very well-traveled routes on this popular wall. Pitch #1: To the left of the main cleft or dihedral which is to the left of the popular Italian Arete, climb up a slight spur of rock passing two small roofs on mostly big, climber-friendly holds. Continue to the top of the wall to a two-bolt belay. 5.7.Carefully rappel the route or lower with a 70m rope. Walking off may be safer and recommended. Rappel x 2 ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Salt Lake Slips Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nosferatu Sunset
Nosferatu Sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of main, east-facing Slips wall.
BETA PHOTO: Overview of main, east-facing Slips wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: The four popular moderate routes at the Salt Lake ...
BETA PHOTO: The four popular moderate routes at the Salt Lake ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Loved this route.
Loved this route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Salt Lake Slips from Narcolepsy Area
Salt Lake Slips from Narcolepsy Area
Rock Climbing Photo: salt lake slips location diamgram
BETA PHOTO: salt lake slips location diamgram
Rock Climbing Photo: this is the overhanging south face.  the short chi...
BETA PHOTO: this is the overhanging south face. the short chi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyrolean Traverse over raging BCC creek.  5-15-06
BETA PHOTO: Tyrolean Traverse over raging BCC creek. 5-15-06
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on Roll the Bones (5.6) on the mai...
BETA PHOTO: Unknown climber on Roll the Bones (5.6) on the mai...

Comments on Salt Lake Slips Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 8, 2016
By Mason
Jun 20, 2003
The Slips are a great place to train a new climbing partner, as there are several relatively easy (5.6-5.8) sport routes side by side. There are also a few 5.10 routes around the corner. Nice variations in the climbs, and in a few hours you can do 3 or 4 routes. It is close to the base of BCC, so it's easy to get to after work in the summer.

To avoid crowds it is good to get there by 3 if you are with someone who is climb-shy. The wall is in the shade in the afternoon, and a climber could easily attach a top rope to any of the other routes instead of leading (if they wanted, but who'd do that?). All of the climbs seem to have their ratings because they have a short crux area, and otherwise they feel easier than rated, but are enjoyable anyway.
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 14, 2006
There is no longer parking on the North side of the road. The recent rain storms of last week washed out part of the road/shoulder from Stairs Gulch to the former parking area of the Slips.
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jun 5, 2007
Whats the deal with access now? Still no tyrolean?

I found the trail hard to follow even knowing where it was supposed to end up. Had some friends go down the wrong drainage and get a bunch of poison ivy. I think there needs to be some Caryn's or something. A good landmark though is the lone tree that looks like a bonsai or an umbrella - walk towards it and keep going it should be the next gully. I thought it was fun instead of going down the deadly scree field switch back thing to go over to the second pitch of whatever and rap down. Going up and out the gully isn't so bad.
By Ryan Peterson
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jun 5, 2007
It comes and goes. Please avoid it if it shows up and tell others not to put them up, it's dangerous and illegal, try to get more people using the path from Storm Mountain. It's a nice little hike.
By James Garrett
Nov 22, 2007
The approach should be abridged in the present description. ooo's map is the correct way, especially during high water periods.
Volunteers with the SLCA have built a great trail over from Storm Mountain. Use it. Kudos JK!
By Tim G.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 8, 2011
The hike from Storm Mountain Picnic Area is around 15 minutes depending on fast you hike. There are a couple meandering paths through the brush on the ridge, but I think they all lead to the same entrance down some loose flat rocks. The water has been low enough to cross since mid August 2011. Going in you can jump across some rocks. Coming back out the jumps are a little harder, so we just walked through the water.
By Billy Smallen
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 3, 2012
The Zombie Corners are up! Climb anything between Italian Arete and Zombieland--once on the ledge make your way to the far right anchors. From there check out Zombieland's second pitch, Double Tap, and Chalking Dead. All super fun!

During high water these are a fun way to gain the ridge while avoiding the gully on your way out to Storm Mountain!
By Tony Roberts
Apr 6, 2015
I found a pair of shoes at the slips yesterday 4/5/15. I would like to get them back to their owner. If they are yours just shoot me a description and I will happily reunite you.
By Kirsten Schiel
From: SLC, UT
Jul 3, 2015
Sorry not sure if this is the appropriate place to post, If there is a better place please let me know. Just coming back from the slips now, where we got my little brother out for the first time (yay) but went to pack up and my backpack was gone. As usual there were a few parties that came and went like they do at the slips and it may have been snagged by mistake as its a bag many people have, small BD day pack lime green, it might be called a bullet but now I am not entirely sure but if you were at the slips today and realized when you got home that you have an extra pack please contact me! I unfortunately can't afford the luxury of buying all my gear twice so it would be cool to get it back!
Kirsten
801 809 4544

And if you took it on purpose then.. Love it good you wanker.
By Jimmy2
Jul 25, 2015
Found pair of climbing shoes in 25July. Message with description and we'll get them back to you.
By Goat
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 4, 2016
Do the arete! Super easy climb, but very fun. Routes to the right of it are awesome as well, great little crag.
By James Garrett
Jun 11, 2016
Climbing in this area very briefly on 11 June when it started to rain, if anyone found my Apple Watch it would be greatly appreciated to see it again....we have this relationship, you know:) I searched my pack and then returned to the area and searched everywhere feasible, but...?

There is no current "Find My Apple Watch" feature as their is with the other devices and it needs close proximity to its paired iPhone to function....probably be of no use to anyone else except that it looks good:)
Kudos and multiple rewards if returned, thanks....
By Kai k
Jun 19, 2016
Left a pair of old red chili climbing shoes 6/19/16. Message me if you've come upon them
385-239-1369
By user id
Jun 19, 2016
Some things happen for a reason Kai.
By Nels Nichols
Jun 20, 2016
Hi, I found an apple smart watch near the slips this weekend, email me at nelsnichols@gmail.com with the watch band color if you think it might be yours and we'll see if we can reconnect you!
By grk10vq
Administrator
Jun 20, 2016
fourth comment up nels ^^^
By derrellwilliams
From: Holladay, Utah
Jun 23, 2016
A rock a little bigger than a softball came off of High Fructose Corn Syrup last night. It was quite a miracle that it didn't hit anyone seeing as the area was packed with youth groups and large parties.

I've climbed here a bunch and haven't seen much loose rock, but just a heads up that a helmet probably isn't the worst idea especially when there is so many people climbing and clamoring around.
By Penny L
From: Farmington, UT
Aug 8, 2016
Hoping I'm not the only one that got a little lost on my way to the routes...We parked across from the picnic area, since there is a required day fee to park there. We crossed and followed the directions over the bridge and past the amphitheater, but perhaps it was because there were a few people climbing at the amphitheater, we didn't quite know where to go from there.

So, just to clarify the hike, head west past the theater and you will come upon a water line that goes into the rock. Follow the trail to the right at that point, then you'll take a left(west) up the hill, keep heading up and south, and as someone aptly stated, look west and you will see a tree that does look like a bonsai tree about 50 yards away. Head west, then down the steep trail and south.

The hike is pretty cool, once you know you're headed in the right direction.
By Tofu Brain
From: Denver
Aug 8, 2016
Penny,
Or you could park on the north side of the rode, walk down to the creek, cross the creek and be at the slips. It's a 3 minute approach and very straight forward, still too long of an approach for this garbage crag though.