REI Community
Bend West
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ambient Domain T 
Another One Bites the Dust T 
C.I.A. (Central Inquisition of Attitudes) S 
Cascade Curtain T 
Cruel Harvest T 
Hallowed Ground T 
House Rules S 
Private Passion T 
Pure Joy T 
Reckoning T 
Salmon Song T 
Sugar Kicks T 
Tiers T 
Tragically Hip S 
Treatment Bound T 
Zero Tolerance T 

Salmon Song 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Mosshart, Andy Fitz (1988)
Page Views: 1,770
Submitted By: andyf on Mar 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Salmon Song

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Fun roof moves (crux) lead to a killer thin hand crack. As of March 2008, you need to build a gear anchor and rap off a route to the (climber's) right.

Named after the salmon-colored lichen under the roof.


Left side of obvious double roof.


Small cams to #2 Camalot. If you want, you can fiddle in a nut or two on the opening slab.

Comments on Salmon Song Add Comment
Show which comments
By rpc
Jun 5, 2008

A great route! Slabby start, easier-than-it-looks roof, fun thin hands crack that is just off-vertical enough not to be too pumpy. Tiers on the right was equally good IMHO.
By Eric Fjellanger
Jun 23, 2012

Really fun. When I hear "5.10a roof" I think jugs, but that is not what this is. It felt pretty challenging for the grade.

You can use the anchors on the right at the top of Tiers, it works fine although the rope drag is kind of a bummer.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 25, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This get's my vote for one of the best 10a cracks in the state.
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Apr 3, 2017

There is a good finger size cam placement a ways up on the slab if you're worried about a zipper. Great nut placements throughout, even in the back of the hand crack. Nuts also work best for a gear anchor at top.
Bring at least doubles of .75 C4s for an onsite. Roof was not as straight forward as tiers, fun sequence.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About