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Salley's Alley 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ted Hammond 10/86
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 2,279
Submitted By: Josh Squire on Dec 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (70)
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BETA PHOTO: A- Air and Pleasant Danger 5.8 B- Short Wave 5.11b...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


Follow a technical corner then move left and over the roof (crux). This is a very good climb and well worth doing. It even stays dry after a rain, so it should be doable whenever you get up there.


Follow trail to Orange Crush off of second parking lot. Near the top you will break right to New Wave. Sally's Alley is in the middle of New Wave wall.


7 bolts to LO. You may want to stick clip the first bolt, otherwise you may bounce off the ledge and keep on going, especially if the ledge is wet.

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 26, 2007

a really fun route that was both steeper and more challenging than it looked... i love the technical corner on the first half of the route...
By Tom Gnyra
May 22, 2012

Fun and really varied, will redpoint next go!

If it feels hard, just stem. I think that's what saved me! Easier than Barking Spiders to the left.
By J Meagher
Oct 27, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

My hardest flash ever, and my toughest ascent anywhere! Don't underestimate this thing though, even the easy looking beginning of the corner can be tricky, I almost peeled off there. Insecure stemming moves up the fun corner, and the really fun long move at the roof got me pretty pumped by the end. Nice varied route on great rock.
By S. Neoh
Oct 27, 2013

NICE. Congrats.
This route has a special place in my heart as it is the first .11 I ever led, after working the route for several weeks while being coached by a friend. Rated .11b BITD.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Feb 10, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Well Soon, you had balls to do this one as your first 5.11 lead.
Even if BITD it was 11b, I would agree with the 11c of the guidebook.
It would be like going for Venus as your first 5.12 skipping all the easy 12a like Outcast, Vaporizer, Valley Daze, Cosmic Monsters...
Good job!!!
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 14, 2014

Soon, this was your first 5.11 lead? You rock. The stemming section is pretty straightforward, but the roof and upper bit are a wicked pumpathon. Flail city. Harrrd.
By S. Neoh
Aug 14, 2014

Nah, Nick and Eric, it was more like I was cocky and knew a lot less than I do now. TomA basically gave me the Beta for every move and I rehearsed the route quite a bit (thanks to his infinite patience) before redpointing it in '94 or '95.
I tried to repeat the route a number of years back and fell off at the bulge. It felt HARD! I guess I have forgotten most of the Beta and not nearly in the shape I need to be.
At the same crag, I enjoyed Valle Daze and Retro Spade a lot even tho I never redpointed any of them. Weevil too mroe recently. Retro Spade is often overlooked but is really good.
Oh, Social Outcast was my first .12 anywhere. Venus had always felt impossible to me, especially the hard move very near the end.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Apr 17, 2016

Had another go yesterday. Chains were two moves away. Sally wins again.

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