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Salinas / Três Picos

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Pico Maior 

Salinas / Três Picos Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 7,760'
Location: -22.33888, -42.72446 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,649
Administrators: Raiden, Tony Yeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Christian Storms on Jul 19, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Park sign

Description 

If you ever wondered what the Yosemite Valley might have been like in the 1970s, this might be your chance to experience it in real time. Some of the longest and most impressive routes in Brazil are found here.
This region, also called "Salinas", is located in the Parque Estadual dos Três Picos (Três Picos State Park) which is the biggest state park in Rio de Janeiro, with 46,350 hectares (114,533 acres).
Known for its long traditional climbs, this area offers over 100 routes ranging from 1-19 pitches.
There are four main peaks. They are Maior, Médio and Menor (Big, Medium and Small) and Capacete (helmet).
Pico Maior, the is the highest mountain in the sierra at 7760 feet, offers 2300 feet granite walls mixing all climbing styles in routes ranging from 8-19 pitches. Some pitches are on vertical walls with huge feldspar crystals protruding from the many pegmatite dikes.
The East Face of Pico Major – the route known as Leste or East in Portuguese – is considered the most classic route. It is graded at 5.9 or 4° V A1E3.
The Arco da Velha route set up in 1986 is a great option for those more experienced climbers.
Major routes include:
Leste (East) 4° V A1E3 (Pico Maior)
Arco da Velha 6° VI+ (Pico Maior)
Pontão do Sol 5° VI + (Pico Maior)
Variante Psylocybis 3° (Pico Maior)
Chaminé Pellegrini 6° VI (Pico Menor)
Devaneios do Repouso 6° VII (Capacete)
Sol da Meia Noite 4° V + E3 (Capacete)
CERJ 10 pitches 5.10 (Capacete)

Getting There 

The nearest two is Nova Friburgo. To get to here, Drive toward the Sierra to Nova Friburgo then follow the road to Teresópolis until km 46. Turn at the sign "Salinas, São Lourenço, Barracão de Mendes". From this point is just follow the signs to "Três Picos" and drive more 5km approximately to reach the park access and some mountain lodges.
Actual roads are:
Cross Rio-Niterói bridge (14 km) to Niterói. Take BR-101 North to Itaboraí. Take RJ-116 (Rota 116) to Cachoeiros de Macacu to Nova Friburgo. Take RJ-122 to Teresópolis. In 30 km turn to Salinas valley at left. Go to Conquista District then
Santa Cruz District then São Lourenço District. Turn to right to IBELGA School to the end of the road.

The approach to many places is over an hour.

Climbing Season

For the Brazil area.

Weather station 12.6 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Salinas / Três Picos

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Salinas / Três Picos:
Leste (East)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 17 pitches, 2788'   Pico Maior
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Salinas / Três Picos

Featured Route For Salinas / Três Picos
Rock Climbing Photo: The helmet as it is known.

Rudolfo Chermont 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  South America : Brazil : ... : Capacete
Climb to the base and traverse right to a bolt to start. Climb some 5.5 along the wall to start pitch 1. The next bit is 5.9 and often aided. There are two bolts to the anchor.The next section goes from 5.8+ to 5.10b which is often aided by pulling on the slings. and then finally to a 5.0 section.The next pitch has only two bolts to the anchor and is 5.5. From here you are climbing up through vegetation to another anchor and then eventually two the top via 5.3....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Salinas / Três Picos Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: To show what the roads are like. The mountains ahe...
To show what the roads are like. The mountains ahe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Female park ranger. See? Brazilian women are hotte...
BETA PHOTO: Female park ranger. See? Brazilian women are hotte...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pico Major and Capacete.
Pico Major and Capacete.

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