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Salbitschijen Westridge
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Salbit Westridge T 

Salbit Westridge 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 32 pitches, 3300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: B. Favre, E. Favre, L. Henchoz (1948)
Page Views: 1,979
Submitted By: Jan-Thijs Menger on Aug 19, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Salbit Westridge

Description 

Famous ridgeclimb in beautiful granite. An early start is necessary. For me some of the pitches where incredible, but it was hard work to do it in a day. We fixed the first pitched the day before.

First Tower:
p1 6b (6a A0): some pitons. Crack climbing and some slabmoves. Beautiful pitch 42m.
p2 5c: easy climbing. Some five 5c-moves (laybacking) 40m.
p3 5a: easy climbing, follow the natural line to the next anchor 40m.
p4 4b: easy climbing, some bushwacking 45m
p5 5a: to the grassband, than to the right for the anchor 40m
p6 5b: crack, laybacking, good pro 42m
p7 4c: pass the red tower to the right. Easy slabclimbing 42m
p8 6a: easy climbing with some technical (boltprotected) cruxmoves in a fingercrack-dihedral. Aiding is possible 45m
p9 4c: ridgeclimbing, ropedrag! 40m
Two rappels (12m and 20m, to the base of the next tower.

Second Tower:
p10 5c: beautiful but long pitch. Easy to protect. Cracks and stemming. Awesome! 48m
p11 6a: strenuous (wide) crack, some bolts 45m
p12 4b: easy, watch for ropedrag 45m
p13 5b: great climbing. Exposed! Easy pro 48m.
p14 5b: Exposed slab, two bolts two rappel-anchor 50m.
Two rappels (10m and 50m to bast of next tower.

Third Tower:
p15 4c: easy climbing, lots of ropedrag 42m.
p16 5cA0: short pitch, with some hard crux moves (6b). Aiding on bolts. 15m
p17 4b: on northface of ridge. Easy but unprotected climbing. Harder for seconder.
p18 5a: Very exposed but big jugs. Beautiful! 30m.
Rappel (30m) to base of next tower.

Fourth Tower:
p19 5a: easy to protect and beautiful solid rock. Cracks. 35m
p20 5c A0: hard moves, aiding on pitons. Then walking. 30m.
p21 5c: Chimney! Well protected with bolts/pitons. Awesome classic pitch! 40m.
p22 5c+: One of the hardest pitches. Long sustained 5c-climbing. Cracks/laybacking. Lots of pitons, but some runouts. Halfway up there's a belay to the right. DON'T GO THERE, OFF-ROUTE! 42m
Rappel (45m) to north side of ridge.

Fifth Tower:
p23 4c: from the bottom of the rappel, walk a bit to the left and go up through a yellow dihedral (two bolts) two cross to the south face of the ridge again.
p24 5b: hard to protect. Cruxmove can be aided. Long pitch! Block-anchor. 48m.
p25 5c+: follow the ridge, then a little downclimbing (two meters, NOT AS MUCH AS THE GUIDEBOOK SAYS!). Look up for the pitons in the small seam under the roof. Go around the roof (to the right) to the anchor 48m.
p26 5c: Great climbing in bomber rock, second half mostly unprotected 42m.
Rappel (15m) to traverse to last tower.

Sixth Tower:
p27 4a: traverse to anchor, linking with p28 is possible (20m).
p28 5b: lower down over the anchor for 10m. Than climb up through the crack (no placements, dangerous pendulum for seconder!!). I climbed to the bolt, my seconder did a pendulum over this bolt. Then some easy downclimbing to base of Sixth Tower.
p29 6a A0: slabclimbing (first half) with boltladder. Than some exposed ridgeclimbing (hard to protect). 50m
p30 5c: Traversing. 15m chimney in the middle of the pitch. Cool! Easy to protect. Watch for ropedrag! 45m.
p31 5a: easy climb out. Cross over the rigde to the north face and climb up to the summitblock. 40m.
p32 5a: Summitblock! Nice easy climbing. One piton and anchor to lower down.



Location 

Go to the base of the westridge and start the route.
The descend takes app 2,5hrs. Follow the red signs on the rocks and follow the eastridge for a bit (past some cables). Then follow the red signs to the north and descend (cross some snowfields). Follow the gully all the way down to the valley.

Protection 

Standard rack + slings. I brought some doubles. Mainly fixed anchors. Rappels on two-bolt anchors.


Comments on Salbit Westridge Add Comment
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By ixf729 Fowler
From: Boulder, CO
May 31, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This route should be on everyones ticklist. I would recommend staying at the small comfortable bivy hut at the very base of the ridge.

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