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Left Hand of Darkness - West Face
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Salathe Free 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Todd Swain
Page Views: 686
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on May 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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I've always wanted to do the Salathe. ha ha phot...


This the right leaning wide crack near the "end" of the formation. Fun climb and great for the beginning leader. I couldn't find a 5.7 move on it, unless possibly the unprotected face left of the top of the crack, to gain a better belay spot. My difficulty rating is generous; there may be one 5.6 move on the entire crack. Still, worth doing and well-protected from the wind!

The Gear 

Standard Rack

Photos of Salathe Free Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Everyone is freeing the Salathe nowdays
Everyone is freeing the Salathe nowdays
Rock Climbing Photo: Salathe Free, 5.7
BETA PHOTO: Salathe Free, 5.7

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By Steve Powell
Feb 17, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

funclimb, and pro is bomber, however, there is not a 5.7 or 5.6 move on the climb. I rate it 5.5
By Russ Walling
Jan 7, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Easy stuff all the way. At the top you can move left into a short finger and hand crack that will add two letter grades to the route... this is the 5.6 finish. Without this, it might be 5.5b. I gotta go with like a half a star. Not a shitbomb, but not something I would ever want to see, do, or hear about again.

Descend down the back toward the road and climbers right. Skirt the formation and cut back toward your gear through a chimney system just up off the desert floor. Yeah, it kinda sucks.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 7, 2014

It's true, Russ and I were there together but feel differently about the days ticks. I thought the route was fun enough, basically 5.4 through the bulk of it (takes gear but not really necessary) until you get to the split.... go right up a slot which is probably described by others or take the left featured finger crack straight up over the "bulge" for 2.5' . The direct finish was fun, easy to pro and probably 5.7. Plenty of gear on top for the anchors from .75 - 3" plus nuts if you've got 'em.

Best part of the likely taking the slot (that we didn't finish on) as your down climb. That our skirt around as Russ noted.

I've done plenty of bombs in JTree...this is short but not one of them. Enjoy.

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