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Nicolum Knob
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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: D. Brayshaw, M-A Leclerc, April 5/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 376
Submitted By: Dru on Apr 6, 2009

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Marc seconding Sakura during the FA.


From the bolted belay anchor on Banana Ledge, make a few moves up ledges to gain a splitter finger crack. From the top of the crack, move left and mantle to another ledge past a bolt, then climb a narrow, inset basalt dyke past a final bolt (crux) to the top. Mostly 5.7/8 climbing with a short 8+/9 crux.


From the highway, hike up the trail that leads up the gully to the top of the crag, passing the start of Highway 12 and a short, steep sport climbing wall. About 2 minutes above the sport wall, look for an unmarked trail branching west out of the gully across a prominent ledge. Follow this trail to the edge of a large cliff and look for a pair of Fixe rappel anchors. Rappel 25m to Banana Ledge. Sakura takes the eastern (right hand) of two cleaned lines off the ledge. The other cleaned line is an ongoing slab project in the 5.11+ range that has not yet been bolted.


A few medium wired nuts or small (finger size) cams, and two bolts.

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