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The Crow's Nest
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Calypso S 
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Crow's Nest, The S 
Dingy, The S 
Ill Gotten Booty S 
J-boat T 
Keel Hauled S 
Keel-Ho S 
Land Ho! S 
Little Mermaid, The S 
Mussels S 
Mutiny S 
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 
S.O.S. S 
Saint Elmo's Fire S 
Scuttlebutt S 
Sea Breeze S 
Seasick S 
Starboard Drift T 
Trad's Nest, The S 
Walk the Plank S 
Woman Overboard S 

Saint Elmo's Fire 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: chris smith 5/99
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route's crux is a short boulder problem traverse that is very technical and engaging. Even once you have the beta, the moves are tenuous but not so strenuous. The climbing below is more straight forward and about 5.9 tops.

Climb the cracked corner, stemming and jamming past the inverted "V" chimney of Keel Hauled (5.12b) where you do a couple of 5.9 moves to a stance in the corner (or a seat on the ledge). Here you have to get technical as you traverse left on tricky underclings for hands and a nice rail for feet. Speaking of feet, get ready to use them as they are the key. Once you figure the sequence out its not too hard to make it out to a side pull jug and a few real easy moves will put you on top.

Location 

20-30 feet right of Ill Gotten Booty (5.9+) there is a corner with a crack in it. This is the start of Saint Elmo's Fire and Keel Hauled.

Protection 

7 bolts to anchor.


Comments on Saint Elmo's Fire Add Comment
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By twellman
From: Cambridge
Mar 12, 2010

Hmmm I'm pretty sure John Parr has the FA on this one..... teeheehee....
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 13, 2010

??..Inside joke? Chris definitely did the FA
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Mar 23, 2010

Haha St Elmo's Fire is a (classic) 80's song by John Parr. Don't listen to it though, cuz you won't be able to stop for at least 2 weeks.
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Apr 4, 2010

Finally got on this climb today, and it was awesome! The bottom part is fun warm-up through the crux of Keel-Ho, then you get to the sweet undercling traverse. There are definitely sweet spots on the undercling, and finding them and avoiding the crappy parts is key to hanging on. The feet are pretty good the whole way, too.

If you want to do an 11d without any hard clips, this is a good one!
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
May 21, 2012

After climbing the fun crack, and looking at it from close up, I thought it looked super hard (didn't have a guidebook on me), so I kept traversing over through Keel-Ho. I'll have to take an actual crack on it next time.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 22, 2012

Once you commit and pull into the crux, it is not bad at all. Once you do this, try the harder version of the same moves on Catch the Wave at Waimea

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