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Saikoh (aka Fun) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Saori Moriyama and James Garrett, 24 November 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime when dry!
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: James Garrett on Nov 28, 2015

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Description 

Left side of the cliff (looking up). Stand atop the obvious boulder for the initial move. located about 3-4m to the right of another bolted slab route.
Pitch #1: An awkward and cruxy, but well protected move off of the boulder with a layback and mantle onto a nice stance. Now continue straight up the featured and sculptured (almost like City Of The Rocks quality in Idaho, USA) rock past several more bolts to a two-bolt belay at the top of the cliff. 5.9+ (?), 20m.

Location 

This is located on the broad expanse of slab to the the left of the chimney chasm trad route and frequently climbed popular corner route left of the overhang. The first move requires the leader to stand on top of an obvious boulder (the only one around) at the base of the cliff.

Protection 

QDs for 6 bolts to a two bolt belay. Well protected and appropriate for the grade.


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