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14:59 S 
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Saigon 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kevin Capps
Page Views: 360
Submitted By: Kevin Capps on Feb 29, 2016

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Description 

This was one of the original lines on the wall, before the more classic variation, Apoca-Lips Now!, was added. After pulling the short-lived roof crux, continue straight up with easier face climbing. The overhanging section and the crux are really fun and worthy of the hike up to The Bunker.

Protection 

Bolts and anchor.


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By josh-works
From: Golden, CO
Jul 5, 2017
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I was on Apoca-Lips Now earlier this week, and "the undercling move" (feels like the crux move, shared by both Apoca-lips now, and Saigon at the third bolt) is flexing.

My partner X'ed, to warn that the hold seems in danger of breaking. I don't reinforce holds (just a lowly sport climber), but I don't know that this hold *could* be reinforced. There's not much area around the hold that could take much glue.

If the hold breaks, unless it leaves behind an equally good hold, it will make that move significantly harder and will probably result in both routes getting a harder grade.

By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jul 5, 2017

I have done the route without using the undercling. If it goes, it's okay. If someone reinforces the hold, that's fine too.
By josh-works
From: Golden, CO
Jul 12, 2017
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Oh, fantastic to know, Kevin. Climbing is funny... I can't imagine doing the move w/o the undercling. I'm def. on the shorter side though (~5'6"), so that *might* account for our different sequences.

Thanks for the info!

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