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Saigon Boulder
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L to R R to L Alpha
Monkey Business 
Monkey Dihedral 
Saigon Direct 


Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

Type:  Boulder, 22'
Original:  Hueco: V5-6 Font: 6C+ [details]
FA: Tommy Klinefelter
Page Views: 7,828
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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This awesome singular prow problem on perfect rock is a 3 move wonder in between easier sections, but man, those are 3 killer moves.

Teasingly easy entry moves lead to two height-dependent crux sequences. For most taller people like myself, its a wild lean out right with the right hand to a sloper-type thingy utilizing a left heel hook. A left hand power up to a bulbous crimp sets you up for the big, flying move to a killer jug! Match and crank off a few knobs and small but positive plates up off the deck, to the blunt top out.

Other people may have to match hands on the bulbous crimp (YIKES!!) and continue.

IMO this is a height-dependent rating...

This boulder problem is sooo good, it got me psyched to get my pads out of storage!!


crash pads and spotters till you get it wired

Photos of Saigon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wills on Saigon
Wills on Saigon
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying Saigon
Trying Saigon
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself sending Saigon, circa 2001. This is still m...
Myself sending Saigon, circa 2001. This is still m...
Rock Climbing Photo: Elijah Forbes on Saigon.
Elijah Forbes on Saigon.
Rock Climbing Photo: JK down low
JK down low
Rock Climbing Photo: Saigon
Rock Climbing Photo: Saigon
Rock Climbing Photo: EE not making the match
EE not making the match
Rock Climbing Photo: Just after the crux
Just after the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron Brillhart on Saigon
Aaron Brillhart on Saigon
Rock Climbing Photo: This is definitely height dependent and is more li...
This is definitely height dependent and is more li...

Comments on Saigon Add Comment
Show which comments
By AWinters
From: NH
Mar 3, 2008
rating: V5-6 6C+

I agree that this rating is height-dependent. matching on that sloping bulb/crimp is heinous..
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 31, 2008
rating: V5-6 6C+

That jug is sharp as hell.

The topout is a lot of fun too-- the holds are good, but you do gain some altitude up there.
By Tim Steele
From: Bishop, CA.
Feb 8, 2011

FA was Tommy Klinefelter
By Andy Liu
From: Eastern Sierra
Jan 24, 2013

By cbtacy
Aug 11, 2013
rating: V6 7A

If you're under about 5'6" this is legitimately V6.

Super good climbing.
By Raddam6
Jan 24, 2015
rating: V6 7A

I would say its V6 for medium heights people such as me at 5'9".
By Mike Deitchman
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 26, 2016
rating: V5+ 6C+

I did this problem some time in 2001. It was rated V5 at the time, and felt sandbagged. I like the new rating better... It's definitely height dependent.

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