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Saigon Boulder
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Monkey Business 
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Saigon Direct 

Saigon Direct 

Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 25'
Original:  Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,132
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jan 7, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Elijah Forbes on Saigon Direct

Description 

Though not quite as classic as Saigon, this worthy line avoids the punchy Saigon crux via a direct line of holds to the left that lead to a traverse back right into the Saigon finish. In some way it seems easier than Saigon but maybe it's because I'm short. In any case, start as for Saigon. Instead of getting the left hand pinch/sidepull and heading right, move straight up from here via a couple of possible sequences to a high pinch/edge. This is where you start to feel the air beneath you a bit. Move right from this hold with difficulty and rejoin Saigon for the finish.

Location 

Start as for Saigon and move right from the high pinch hold. The Superdirect (harder, scarier and even more proud) goes straight up from the pinch to slopers at the very top of the prow! I think the easiest downclimb option is to your right and down the slab from where you top out. Downclimbing the V0 patina face with care is also an option.

Protection 

The ground is like cement here so several pads and a really good spotter are ideal. An uncontrolled fall from the crux pinch/edge could really hurt on this one.


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By Andy Liu
From: Eastern Sierra
Mar 27, 2014

By Sam Daulton
May 5, 2017

Use caution on this one. I fell moving off the pinch, landed on the boundary of two pads, went straight through, shattered my ankle, and broke my foot. The landing is more dangerous that its appearance suggests. The ground is hard.
By Drewsky
May 6, 2017

Oh no Sam, that really sucks! Aside from how much fun the problems on it are, my clearest memory about the boulder is how remarkably hard the ground is underneath. I remember landing on my old Cordless pad, perhaps from the Saigon crux and going right through to what felt like cement and bruised heels. Good luck with the healing process!

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