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Said and Done 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA: Jonathan Bjorklund and Bill Claggett, May '71 FFA: Rusty Baillie and Jack Hauck, November '71
Season: July - Feb
Page Views: 2,545
Submitted By: ccmski on Nov 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Pitch 2 of Said and Done November 4th, 2013 Just ...

Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

p1: Climb the crack just right of the 1st pitch of Reunion past two shrubs. Traverse up and right through a quartz band to a poor belay stance on a sloping ledge. (5.7)

p2: The business. Climb the obvious crack in the elegant, steep left facing corner. Sustained jamming of all sizes for 90' leads to a belay stance at the base of a wide cleft and the final pitch of Reunion. (5.9)

p3: Climb moderate 5th class up the cleft to a final boulder problem to surmount the top of the Flying Buttress.

Descend through the hole with a minor downclimb to gain ledge access to the Coke Bottle Raps. 1 60m rope will get you to the ground in 2 raps from here. Otherwise, continue across the Flying Buttress to finish up Beaver Cleaver or High Exposure exit. From the top, you will need a 70m or 2 ropes to complete the first rappel without doing the cam trick.

A more sustained and classic four star linkup is Said and Done -> Reunion (5.10-). This starts on either the 1st pitch of Reunion or Said and Done, climbs the 2nd (corner) pitch of Said and Done, and exits on the final (finger) pitch of Reunion. Highly recommended.

Edit Note: If you do the first pitch of Reunion, you end up on the ledge system with tree at the base of the Classic Chimney and the Crack Lovers Variations. From there, the only way you'll get to the finger crack pitch is to climb the rest of Reunion to get up there. So the way to do the classic four-star linkup is to start with the first two pitchs of Said and Done, then the finger crack pitch of Reunion and throw the cherry on top by finishing on Beaver Cleaver. Excellent!

Location 

Begin on the left side of the flying buttress. The Said and Done start is the crack system just right of the left facing Reunion corner.

Protection 

Nuts, 2x cams from #.3 to #2 Camalot, single #3


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