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Quien Sabe Glacier 
Sahale Glacier T 

Sahale Glacier 

YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c Easy Snow

Type:  Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c Easy Snow [details]
Season: Year-round, summer/fall best
Page Views: 789
Submitted By: J. Manning on Mar 25, 2016

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Sahale Glacier in low visibility conditions


The Sahale Glacier route ascends the Sahale Glacier to the SW side of the summit pyramid base. Steeper snow or 3rd and 4th class scrambling leads to a flat ledge/mini saddle below a short chimney-like feature on the south side of the pyramid, which is climbed to the summit (5.0).


From Cascade Pass, hike the Sahale Arm to Sahale Glacier camp. Glacier travel begins beyond this point.


A few pieces of rock pro can protect the final moves to the summit. There is typically a slung block on top which serves as a rappel station. Roping up on glaciers is generally a good idea, though the Sahale Glacier is small and not very active.

Photos of Sahale Glacier Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the gentle Sahale Glacier towards the s...
Looking up the gentle Sahale Glacier towards the s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ledge/saddle below summit pyramid on south side
BETA PHOTO: Ledge/saddle below summit pyramid on south side

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By Nathan Stegenga
From: Central, SC
Jul 1, 2016
rating: 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c

Found a VERY loose shoebox-sized block on the front bottom "nose" of the summit block rap station right where the current rap anchors get pulled to a point when weighted. One of the climbers in our party nearly sent it down by barely bumping it with her foot. Removed loose block and placed it securely in a large crevice. Rap anchors unaffected, and rest of the block is still solid.
By Amine Chater
From: Portland
Jul 10, 2017

Climbed the East face via Quien Sabe glacier: once at the notch, we traversed loose rock and snow towards Boston peak, we remained on the ridgeline as long as we could before dropping down east of the ridge, we traversed above a massive shrund on the Boston glacier. From there, it was class3 and 4 following the path of least resistance. is there a ton of loose rock on this peak? You bet. It was a fun scramble, finished off by 2 or 3 rappels. I do not believe there's a class 5 move.

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