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Saguaro Corner 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Argueso, “Chucky” 91
Page Views: 53
Submitted By: Jon Ruland on Nov 29, 2015

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Description 

This is the overhanging corner formed by the intersection of the two walls. The bottom has some interesting stems and a burly pull above your gear onto the ledge that splits the route in half. From the ground it looks like you would be able to get a good rest here but the wall is so overhanging that you can't really manage much more than a shakeout. From here, lieback and stem the nice corner to the top of the formation, then traverse right a short distance to the anchors for Cholla.

Location 

The corner between the two walls. See John H's Milagrosa Canyon guide.

Protection 

Light rack; lots of bomber nut placements on this route. A #4 Camalot fits perfectly as your first piece above the ledge. Bringing one is highly recommended as you'll have trouble getting another piece in without pulling some moves in ground fall range.


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By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 29, 2015

After leading this one today we toproped it and knocked at least 100 pounds of choss off the bottom, including the death block described in John H's Milagrosa Canyon Guide. The route is fairly safe now with most of the large and medium-sized blocks removed, though there is still plenty of small stuff waiting to come off.

The next time I'm out there i'll bring a hammer and finish cleaning this route. It actually turned out to be pretty enjoyable once the terrifying death blocks were removed.
By Jimbo
Nov 30, 2015

Strong work Jon.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 30, 2015

thanks jim. this route is actually pretty good, especially the overhanging layback/stemming corner up high. with the choss mostly gone it's yet another reason to bring a rack to milagrosa.

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