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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aquarius T,TR 
Asterisk T,TR 
Cosmic Ray T,TR 
Sagittarius T,TR 
Solar Wind T,TR 
Starline T,TR 

Sagittarius 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: 2013 Ben Brooke
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 32
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Sep 4, 2014

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Description 

Somewhat contrived - using the wide crack to the right (Aquarius) greatly reduces the difficulty. But commit to only the thin hands crack and the face above its end, and you are stepping into a real challenge.
Climb up the thin hands crack (difficult start, then enjoyable climbing) to its end. Very committing, intricate face moves reach the top. Make a poor choice of line here and the difficulty rises well beyond 5.8; and the last gear is well below your feet.

Location 

This is the thin crack which leans slightly leftward, diverging from the wide crack of Aquarius. It does not get to the top of the cliff.

Protection 

Standard rack, emphasis on small to medium cams.


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By Gunkiemike
Nov 7, 2016

I found nothing remotely 5.8 about the unprotected (PG? Really?? You could take a 30 footer from that spot) upper face. More like 10a, and I only found the "nice hueco" (ADK Rock descr.) while trending up and R from the Starline bolt after TR'ing that line.