REI Community
Main Wall, left side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amandla S 
Batskins T,S 
Bwana Dik T,S 
City Park T 
City Park Bolt Ladder S 
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 
Dwarf Tossing T 
Frog Pond T 
Frog Prince T,S 
Full Horse Power T 
Godzilla T 
Iron Horse T 
Iron Horse P2 T 
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 
Japanese Gardens T 
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love  T 
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 
Model Worker T 
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 
Numbah Ten S 
Numbah Ten P3 T 
Park Ranger T 
Princely Ambitions T 
Sagittarius T 
Slow Children T 
Stern Farmer T 
Sushi Farmer T 
Tadpole T 
Tantric Bazooka T 
Tommy's Sandbox T 
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: To ringing flake: Pat Timson. FFA to roof: Mark Moore. FFA P1 full: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson. P2: Terry Lien, Darryl Cramer
Season: Whenever it's dry
Page Views: 12,064
Submitted By: jonah on Feb 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (116)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ryan on the upper handcrack of Sagitarius.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


Just to the left of Japanese Gardens is this obvious line of hand cracks and traversing roofs. Start on the ledges above the big stump on the trail and lieback a wide flare for about 10 feet to a short finger crack. Move right into a sweet steep handcrack, up into a wide (6"?) crack that traverses left. Clip the fixed chock before the traverse, and walk a # 5 Camalot to the end if you want to protect this section, or drag will become an issue. At the end of the traverse there is a set of anchors. Skip this and get into the chimney above it. Walk your #5 up this section again until the chimney narrows and you step out onto the face to commit to the perfect handcrack above. You'll hit the "ringing flake" here. Spooky. The handcrack cruises through it to the anchor up above (from which you can TR Iron Horse, too). A 5.11 variation goes through the roof above this anchor.


Several hand-size pieces (at least double #2 Camalots and maybe double #3s to sew it), a few smaller cams, and a healthy selection of large cams. A #5, while not necessary, would ease the mind a bit.

Photos of Sagittarius Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Triplett on Sagittarius
Ryan Triplett on Sagittarius
Rock Climbing Photo: crawling up the flake
crawling up the flake
Rock Climbing Photo: finishing the traverse
finishing the traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse has good feet.  #4 friends work.  As ...
The traverse has good feet. #4 friends work. As ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Rose on Sagittarius
Kevin Rose on Sagittarius

Comments on Sagittarius Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jesse James
From: Knoxville, TN
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The full first pitch (5.11b) is one of the best on the lower wall. This pitch has everything you could ever want on a climb. It's the only climb I have ever enjoyed that I place a #3, #3.5, #4, and a #4.5 camalot on.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Jul 28, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

A fellow climber aptly described this amazing route as "a voyage." It takes you through so many big, improbable features that by the time you reach the final stretch of steep handcrack, you'll feel as though it was twice as long. Shorter folk will get an extra thrill on the traverse under the roof, as you may not reach the undercling to use for balance.

Gearwise, I find that placing a #3.5 in lieu of clipping the chockstone inspires a bit more confidence for the wide section til you can get a #4 at the roof. A #5 is bomber for the chimney and a few .75's and #1's are nice in the upper handcrack. A single #3 was sufficient but you could probably place another if you bring more.
By Drewsky
Jun 26, 2013

This is also really fun if finished via the upper roof of Iron Horse by stepping left from the first Sagittarius anchor.
By MorganH
Aug 29, 2013

Don't listen to Aaron's gear beta. Place a 3.5 or a 4 slightly to the right of the middle of the traverse and run the rope behind the flake, it won't bind.
By ehhaole
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 17, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Excellent, physical pitch with a bit of everything. Not the best choice for beginning leaders. (Nickname: 'Saggiscary-us.')

It is also possible to leave a #4 camalot midway through the main traverse and run the rope /outside/ of the chimney (attached by long sling). If done right this can result in very little rope drag--gear inside chimney then becomes the rope drag concern; use more long slings for any gear placed inside the chimney, and/or wait until you step back out of it to place more gear.

The roof finish to the right is worthwhile and the fixed piton seems to hold falls. Good rest and one or two small cam placement possibilities above the short but airy crux, then a licheny, balancey mantle to the chains.
By blakeherrington
Dec 16, 2014

From the anchor at the full P1, great climbing(.10+/11-) leads up and left for 20' to the major ledge atop full Iron Horse. Bring a couple small wires or small cams. The climbing is a fun mix of arete compression on twin aretes, and stemming. Link with P1 if rope drags allows, or bring up your partner and do this as the start of P2 Iron Horse.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About