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Sage Advice 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: T. Bubb & Micah Isaac, 6/26/11
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces N/NW (afternoon sun)
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 29, 2011

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  • Description 

    This is a good climb overall with even better potential if finished via "Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie" rather than by the original finish. As Supposed... had already been climbed, on the FA this one was pushed onto new territory instead of the single best finish.

    Start 10 feet downhill (left) of the start of 'Supposed...' in a fat, right-facing flake that forms a brief, shallow dihedral hanging just above the ground. Climb up into this, place gear, and then continue on moderate territory up an offset.

    The crux of the climb is at mid height, passing a short section of finger-locks avoiding a twiggy section of crack where the offset switched from left-facing and left-leaning to right-facing and right-leaning. The rock and protection there are solid, but the climbing somewhat reachy for shorter folks and strenuous, so the next gear placed might be several moves later.

    You will be breaking left and avoiding the obvious left-facing, left-leaning, flaring dihedral above, which is the finish to 'Unsolicited Advice' which had also been done previous to the FA of this route. From there, continue to slant right to cross and pass under the bulging crux finish of 'Supposed...' and up and right onto the right side of the bulging cap, finishing a few feet away from the down-climb.


    This climb lies a few meters down and left (East) from the Northwest-most point of rock at the summit of the Third Advisor. It is just left of "Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie" (see pictures of that route on its page) and starts in an immistakable, short, right-facing, shallow dihedral that hangs a few feet up, disconnected from the ground before becoming a set of direction-switching offset cracks.


    Mostly medium stoppers and small cams, but a few larger camps (hand/fist) were used up top.

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