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Julia's Outcrop (Governor Lister Cliff)
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Saffron Spider S 
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Spawning Effort T,S 

Saffron Spider 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mathias Holladay
Season: all
Page Views: 1,754
Submitted By: CameraisHeavy on Nov 21, 2010  with updates from DynoTee

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: TR'ing Saffron Spider


This one is a nice looking line and looks deceptively easy. Many have backed down due to the high first bolt. A combination of friction footwork and balancey side pulls makes this a great route and a hard 9. A cam can be placed low on the route if desired for a more tolerable first clip.


On the Left side of the wall. Just to the right of Spawning Effort. It's the only climb on the wall that looks like a slab route.


Sport. One medium cam down low if desired. It's also possible to pre-clip the first bolt.

Photos of Saffron Spider Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle traversing to the first bolt
Kyle traversing to the first bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow crack up and right to the first bolt and co...
BETA PHOTO: Follow crack up and right to the first bolt and co...

Comments on Saffron Spider Add Comment
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By smassey
From: CO
Jul 19, 2009

Great route! Fun thin face climbing. Takes a great yellow Metolius before the first bolt. 3 bolts, chain anchor. This is the 4th route from left. The first bolt on this route is shared with Our Typhoon Rhythm, Grog Supply, and Magic Cutlass.
By smassey
From: CO
May 8, 2011

This is an old-school bolted route. The cam in question is a yellow Alien/Metolius.
By DynoTee
From: Bellingham, WA
Feb 10, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

You can either add a cam in or preclip the first bolt This route is quite fun
From: Washington State
Mar 1, 2016

Fun climb!
The direct boulder start is fun, and provides a good position for the belayer. Less rope drag and zig zag. My preferred way to do this climb.

Many of the bolts in this area could use an update.

THIS CLIMB REALLY NEEDS A NEW ANCHOR SOON... Still works, but its getting pretty rusty...
By Kemper Brightman
From: Tucson
Jul 24, 2016

The real challenge of this route is keeping your mind intact once you realize you'd deck if you blew any of the clips. If only one change is made, moving the 2nd bolt so it's clipable from the obvious stance to the right, instead of forcing you to traverse and clip at your shin, would make a big difference.

Instead of replacing the anchor, it appears someone just added another bolt and chain to the right of the existing anchor. So yoy can rest assured there is at least one bomber bolt included in the three point anchor at the top...

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