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Safety First Rock
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Casual Affair T 
Safety Pin T 

Safety Pin 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, 1984
Page Views: 442
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 22, 2003

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Approaching the crux on Safety Pin

Description 

Begin on a boulder near the left end and traverse right above a roof to large stances. The first gear placement is about 15' off the ground but the climbing difficulty through the initial section is moderate (5.10-). Continue upward past one bolt and a piton before reaching the sustained crux section using side pulls, protruding edges, and small crystals to a sloping ledge. A move over a bulge near the top leads to a two bolt anchor.

Location 

This fine route ascends the middle section of the Safety First Rock through a series of discontinuous slanting seams on solid rock. The Safety First Rock is about 40' right of the Future Games formation.

Protection 

Many small stoppers including brass and #00 - #3 TCU's provide adequate protection. One bolt (3/8") and a solid piton are also present. A two bolt (3/8") anchor is present on top of the rock.


Photos of Safety Pin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sizing up the final bulge. The route "Casual ...
Sizing up the final bulge. The route "Casual ...

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