||Ice, Grade II
|Original: ||AI2 Steep Snow [details]|
|Page Views: ||1,522|
|Submitted By: ||J.B. on Feb 14, 2010|
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James pulling up a short mixed section.
I originally put this in as lightning couloir, but when I did it, I took the variation known as safety dance. You start up Big Butch Wash after parking in the lot for the ski hut trail, and head up until you get to the bend(waterfall was present when I was there). You will see a couloir known as lightning couloir to your right. Partway up the route, take a left up a short mixed section, through a couple more mixed sections straight up from there, then pull up a steeper notch at the top that has routes with actual ice that supports you!(at least it did for me..). This brings you onto Thunder Ridge and you can head up to Thunder Mountain peak or find a route to Telegraph Peak etc...
Park in the same place as you do for Baldy's ski hut trail and head up Big Butch Wash. When you reach a waterfall that can be passed to continue on Big Butch Wash, turn right and head up the prominent couloir. Careful as this is avalanche area.
We soloed this route with an Ice axe and extra tool each. You could probably get away with a standard axe if it's snowy enough, but then again, lots of snow makes for a lot of postholing and an exhausting time. No pro required but if with a beginner then pickets, small alpine rack might be useful. Helmets and crampons also required. Skis or Snowboard HIGHLY recommended in powdery conditions.
Some fun on Safety Dance two years ago. Photo by J...
BETA PHOTO: Start of the approach in Big Butch Wash.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the top of the notch we took (I ...
BETA PHOTO: From above the mixed section we took the notch in ...
BETA PHOTO: We turned left from the main couloir here up a lit...
BETA PHOTO: Lightning couloir with avy debris
BETA PHOTO: Head right when you see this(route not in picture)
Feb 14, 2010
First off, I put this under Baldy's page because of the close proximity and I didn't want to make a whole new area. Second, if my descriptions confuse anyone feel free to revise, criticize, or pm me if you want details.
By Justin Johnsen
Jan 10, 2012
Added a new area for The Three T's, could the owner or an admin move this route there? Thanks.